Before you start assembly, it's a good idea to arrange a neat and clean work area such as a
large table or work bench and if outdoors avoid working directly over grass. If a small screw or
O-ring falls in the grass you may never find it.
Lay out all parts included in your kit and make sure you are not missing anything. Place small
parts into bowls, or other small shallow containers to prevent them from rolling off your work
table onto the ground.
A hobby vice can really come in handy for securing the fuselage of the bird while you work. If
you have a vice that does not have smooth jaws, be sure to use wood blocks as soft jaws to
prevent scoring of the fuselage frame when you clamp it.
Keep the wings and tail a way from the hot soldering iron!
Your kit comes with the connecting rods attached to the crankshaft for shipping and as an
assembly aid but the cap screws must be backed out and loc-tite applied, then re-tightened
before flying.
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7)
Installing the Speed Control:
When soldering the speed control wires...PAY ATTENTION TO POLARITY!
The positive
speed control lead must solder to the positive motor terminal AND make sure the MOTOR leads
coming off the controller go to the MOTOR, and the BATTERY leads coming off the controller
go to the BATTERY side. Most controllers have leads labeled "MOT" for motor side and "BATT"
or "ACCU" for battery side. If you hook it up backwards and apply battery power you may
smoke the speed control and ruin it. Burning out a speed control in this manner voids
manufacturers warranties on most if not all controllers so be forewarned!
Arming the speed control:
Read your speed control manufacturers instructions before operating. Some brands of
controllers have safety features which require the user to arm the controller before it will
operate. If your controller does not seem to work, most likely it's not due to a faulty controller,
but rather due to the a safety feature so please read your ESC instructions.
All soldering should be done before the wingsail is installed on the fuselage to avoid the
risk of damage to the wingsail.
Wingsail is not warranted against burns!
The Slow Hawk 2 is designed to use either JST connectors or the 2 pin polarized Deans
connector (Deans part no. 1001, available at hobby shops) to connect the battery pack to the
speed control.
When using polarized connectors, the POSITIVE battery lead (red wire) goes to the side of the
connector with the exposed pin. The mating polarized connectors are opposite of each other so
this means you will have to solder the mating speed control connector so the NEGATIVE lead
(black wire) goes to the side of its connector with the exposed pin. There is no on/off switch with
this arrangement if you use a typical 10 amp controller. Plugging the battery into the speed
