J
USTCHLOR OWNERS HANDBOOK
Page 12 of 16
Created by: Product Management – Just Range of Products – Jasco Trading (Pty) Ltd
Q: I’m getting a reading on my chlorinator Output Meter but there is no chlorine reading
in the pool water. The chlorinator isn’t working, what do I do?
A: If you are registering an output of anything from 25% - 100% on any given Selector
Switch setting, then the chlorinator
is
operational; there must be something else wrong,
such as; insufficient Chlorine Stabiliser, Low/High pH, or incorrect Total Alkalinity.
•
Lets explain: If there is a reading on the Output Meter then by simple science,
there must be chlorine being produced. The one cannot exist without the other in
chlorination systems. The rational behind this is; The Output Meter is an Ampere
Meter that registers current flow, for current to flow, there has to be a circuit, the
salt water (NaCl electrolyte) completes the circuit between the Positive (+) plates
and Negative (-) plates of the Electrode thus registering a reading on the
Output/Ampere Meter. If current flows, then electrolysis has to be taking place
and chlorine must be present, albeit that it’s not being an effective sanitiser due
to other factors, (other than the Chlorinator). Have your water analysed and
adjust water chemistry accordingly.
Q: My Overload Switch/Button keeps tripping, what do I do?
A: The Overload Button will trip out as a result of some abnormal condition - Take heed
and check the following:
•
Ensure the electrode is free of any calcium (white chalky substance). Over
calcified electrodes will cause the Overload Button to trip. If this is the case,
clean and replace electrode and restart the chlorinator.
•
Ensure no foreign objects are causing the electrode plates to touch each other,
or bridge out. Remove if necessary.
•
Not withstanding the above, the Overload Button will trip in cases where there is
an Over Salt Condition. If this is suspected:
o
Turn down the Selector Switch down 1 position until the Overload
ceases to trip.
o
Observe the Output Meter needle reading at the point where the
Overload ceases to trip.
o
An indication of ~100% on the Output meter is the maximum current
that the unit is able to produce, albeit on Selector Switch Position 1/2/3.
•
If the Overloaded Button is reset numerous times, without rectifying the fault, the
Overload device will become damaged and it functionality diminished. The result
thereof will be the replacement of the device by a qualified agent. This device is
non Warranty item.
Q: My chlorinator fuse keeps blowing, what do I do?
A: The fuse provided on our systems are there to protect the incoming Power, this will
have blown as a result of either;
•
A power surge or lightning strike in close proximity to the unit.
•
A short in the unit caused by some ingress of either water or vermin (ants,
lizards, cockroaches, etc).
•
Excessive corrosion of the internal parts of the chlorinator due to storage of
corrosive chemicals (pool acid, chlorine and/or other open chemicals within the
pool box/housing), or water/moisture damage, due to leaking pumps, filters,
pipes, rain/flooding, etc)
•
Either one of these conditions should be addressed by a professional/agent.
•
Do not attempt to replace the fuse with a larger current carrying capacity doing
so will result in severe damage to the unit and/or an electrical shock to the
person attempting this, not to mention the voiding of the Warranty.
Q: I can hear my Self Cleaning chlorinator operating inside (clicking) when I switch the
Selector Switch backward and forwards, but there is no output on the Output Meter, the
meter stays stationary, what do I do?
A: There may be a number of reasons, or combinations of reasons for this situation, let us
explain:
•
The Water flow sensor may be clogged up with calcium, remove the Electrode
from its Housing and clear the calcium off the Water flow sensor with your finger.
