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i.
Rest a 2" x 4" x 10' board vertically on top of
the baseboard, centered between the door
frame and the endwall ground post with the
wide edge facing outward from the end of the
tunnel. Make a mark just below the bow and
cut to length. Clamp this precut board back in
its centered position on top of the baseboard
and just below the endwall bow. Toe-nail with
two 3" bugle head wood screws. Check for
square and adjust the top clamp as
necessary. Pre-drill from the top and secure to
the bow using a 5/16"-18 x 4" lag bolt. Repeat
for the opposite side.
j.
Cut two more pieces of 2" x 4" to a length of
64". Place one at the top of the door opening
so that the wide edge is facing the end of the tunnel. Secure at each end with a couple 3" bugle head
wood screws. Place the second one under the first with its narrow edge facing out and flush with the
outside edges of the door frame. Secure at each end with a couple 3" bugle head wood screws, then
secure the second board to the first with four more 3" bugle head wood screws.
k. Run a piece of string tightly from the top of
the end of one hipboard to the other. Pre-drill
a 5/16" hole in the center of a
2” x 4” deck
framing bracket and secure inside the
groundpost,
aligned so that the top of the 2” x
4” it will support will be aligned with the top of
the hipboard and string. Secure to the
groundpost and hipboard, with self-drilling
screws and the existing carriage bolt. At an
even height from the baseboard, attach
another bracket to the outside edge of the
middle vertical support board, using 1.25"
drywall screws. Cut a 2" x 4" board to fit,
notching one end for the carriage bolt. Install
and secure with 1.25" drywall screws. Repeat
for the opposite side.
l.
Using the string as a guide, finish attaching
brackets, precut boards, and install between
the vertical support boards and the outside
door frame boards as shown in the endwall
diagram on the previous page.
m. The endwall frame is complete.
3.j.
3.k.
3.l.
3.m.
3.h.
7617.999 Rev 06/21/2021 | AL, JG, ms