7
4. Set assembly on bench and
re move connection box. When
box is lifted off, connection
wires to motor will be
exposed. These wires will
probably be burned, but each
wire is tagged with a metal
marker giving wire number.
Cut the wires.
If the leads to the connection
box are burned, a complete
new con nec tion box with
new wire must be used. The
wires are potted in with
sealing compound and a new
unit must be obtained from
the factory.
5. The stator is held in the
housing
with a bolted-in
end ring and an outside
locking screw to prevent
stator from turning.
6. After ring is removed, turn
hous ing upright and bump on
hard wood blocks. This should
jar the stator loose and allow it
to drop out.
7. Thoroughly clean housing
before replacing new stator.
Replace stator and make all
wire con nec tions to connection
box before replacing housing
on pump. This is important as
leads must be tucked behind
the windings by using hands
up through rotor core.
IMPORTANT:
Use
only
com pres sion type insulated
connectors on the wires.
DO NOT TAPE LEADS AS
OIL WILL DETERIORATE
THE TAPE AND CAUSE
DAMAgE TO STATOR AND
BEARINgS.
8. Drain oil from chamber. If
oil is clean and no water
is
present,
seals
can
be considered
sat is fac to ry
to reuse.
9. Check top bearing. If clean
and does not turn rough,
bearings can be reused and it
is not necessary to completely
dismantle pump to change
bearings. If bearings are
damaged with dirt or heat,
they must be replaced. See
additional instructions on
replacing seals and bearings.
Remember to reinstall the
upper bearing load spring.
10. Before
replacing
stator
housing be sure outside lock
screw is in place and that O-
ring is used under head of bolt.
A leak here can cause a motor
failure. If a new stator has
been used it will be necessary
to drill into the stator
lamination for a holding
socket for bolt (
29
⁄
64
dia. drill,
1
⁄
2
" deep, and
1
⁄
2
-20 UNF,
3
⁄
8
deep into the stator). This
holding spot is drilled through
the bolt hole when the stator is
bolted in place with the end
ring.
11. Replace stator housing onto
seal chamber and bolt in place.
BE SURE SEAL FAILURE
WIRE IS CONNECTED
BEFORE HOUS INg IS
ASSEMBLED.
Be sure back-off screws have
been loosened so that parts
can come metal to metal. Be
sure O-ring seal has been
replaced. If O-ring is nicked or
cut, replace with new rings.
This applies to all O-rings
used in assembly.
12. After all leads are reconnected
in the connection box, make a
high voltage ground test on
each wire. The only wire that
should show ground is the
green power lead and the
ground lead in the aux il ia ry
control cable.
13. For safety, complete pump
should be air checked under
water for leaks. If seals were
OK, refill seal chamber with
oil. Lay pump on side for this
oil filling with oil fill hole
upright. Do not completely
fill; leave oil about 1 inch
below plug hole. Use only
high grade transformer oil
or
regular
Hydro matic
submersible
oil
in
this
chamber. Replace plug; use
Permatex on threads. Install
air valve in top plug opening
of motor housing and charge
housing with about 10 psi of
air. Be sure air is dry. Do not
use air line where water may
be trapped in the line.
Submerge complete unit under
water and check for leaks.
14. Refill motor chamber with oil.
Use high grade transformer
oil or Hydromatic special
sub mers ible oil. Fill chamber
until oil cov ers top of
windings. Leave air space in
top
for
expansion.
Use
Permatex on plug threads.
Replacing Seals and Bearings:
1. Drain all oil from motor
chamber and seal chamber as
described.
2. Remove motor housing as
described.
3. Remove bolts that hold seal
cham ber to pump housing.
Use back-off screws to break
loose. With hardwood block,
tape end of impeller to loosen
from shaft. When free, remove
impeller from shaft.
4. Lift rotating assembly (rotor,
shaft and impeller) from pump
case and place horizontally
on bench.
5. Remove screw and washer
from end of shaft and then
screw socket head bolt back
into shaft. Using a screwdriver
on opposite sides behind
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