12
(
Note:
as you cut slabs, boards or squares you may need to adjust the guide to ensure
the best performance and quality cuts)
2 - Find the top of the log with the blade. Remember, that you may have cheaters in place
so be sure these are clear when making the first cut. You will be removing the top
portion of the log. (top slab)
3 - With the manual lift models, crank your head down to just past the desired height
mark and then crank up to the height mark for the next cut, this ensures that the head
is set equal on both sides. Make sure your blade will clear your log dog assembly.
4 - Start your engine. (Refer to the engine manual for proper engine maintenance)
5 - With the engine at idle position, increase the throttle to full speed to engage the blade.
Sawing should always be done with the engine at Full Throttle. Start the blade in the
log slowly, DO NOT ram it into the log!
6 - Once started in the log gently push the saw head through the log, pushing on the head
frame. If the engine starts to labor, you are going to fast, slow down. Go slow through
burls and knots as the engine may bog down through these parts of a log.
7 - When you are at the end of the log, power down the engine, crank the head up so that
it will clear the log and roll mill head back to the front of the log. For ease of
operation, put the slabs on the operator's side of the mill, this way you will not have
to dig through sawdust for your lumber.
8 - You now have a flat surface on top of your log, remove the cheaters (if applicable) you
will no longer need them, as long as the log dogs will hold the log in place.
9 - Raise the log dog assembly so that they are standing in the track. Turn the cut side
of the log, using a cant hook, ¼ of a turn. The flat side must be flush against the
squaring pin to assure a square cant. (see fig. G Page #13)
10 - Adjust the log dog at an angle to the track so that the blade can pass over the top, but
so that the dogs are effective in securing the log. (see Fig. G and G-1, page 13)
11 - Once again, increase the engine throttle to start the blade, and saw another slab off.
You will repeat these steps until your log is squared into a cant. Once you have
obtained the dimension you need to make lumber, then start sawing your
dimensional lumber.
12 - NOTE: All logs have some tapper to them, for best production method, use a shim
under the small end of you log to compensate for the taper. The shim should be half
the thickness of the difference in diameter of the two ends of your log. (Example: Log
is 12” on small end and 15” on the big end, use a shim of 1 1/2” thick under the small
end of the log) You will do that for the first two face cuts on the log.
Cutting Procedure
The short squaring pins welded in
the track can be used once you have
a good square corner on your cant.
When using the short squaring pins
you do not have to have the long
squaring pins up on the cant, just use
the movable dog and pinch it to the
short squaring pins to cut down to
the last inch. (see Fig F-3 this page)
Fig. F-3
Short Squaring Pin
