
lp-451 Rev. 001 Rel. 001 Date 7.25.17
6
Part 3 - Piping
A. Plumbing
It is mandatory that all plumbing be done in accordance with federal,
local, and state plumbing codes and practices. Failure to properly
install the water heater WILL VOID the warranty. It is also necessary
to use both thread tape and pipe dope on all mechanical plumbing
connections.
When filling the water heater, open a hot water tap to release air in
the tank and piping. Failure to do so could lead to improper water
heater operation and damage to components.
DO NOT pipe this water heater with black iron, galvanized steel,
steel, or lead pipe. Doing so will result in premature product failure
and property damage, and WILL VOID the product warranty.
B. Boiler Connections
Use two wrenches when tightening water piping at the heater. Use
one wrench to prevent the heater return or supply line from turning.
Failure to prevent piping connections from turning could cause
damage to water heater components.
Use a 1” nominal minimum pipe size when piping with zone valves or
circulators.
On the water heater, the boiler supply connects to the outlet of the
circulator. The circulator inlet is to be connected to the hot outlet
side of the boiler. Be sure that the arrow on the circulator is facing
the correct flow direction. (See pressure drop sizing for circulator, this
manual.) On the tank, the boiler return connects to the return side of
the boiler. The return(s) from heating loop(s) should have a flow check
or swing check valve installed before the return pipe from the tank.
C. Domestic Piping Inlet
Never use dielectric fittings or galvanized steel fittings on any
domestic water connections. Use only copper or brass fittings.
Failure to do so will result in premature water heater failure. Such
failure IS NOT covered by warranty.
Use both thread tape and pipe dope to connect to the all stainless
steel 3/4” domestic inlet and outlet. A shut-off valve between the city
water supply and tank inlet is recommended for ease of service.
It may be recommended to use a back flow preventer - check local
codes. If a back flow preventer or no return valve is used, a thermal
expansion tank must be installed on the cold water supply between
the tank and valve. If the tank is replacing a tankless coil in the boiler,
disconnect coil plumbing and use the cold water inlet and hot water
outlet pipes for the water heater.
D. Auxiliary Connections
The auxiliary connections are additional connections for a recirculation
line. These connections must be installed in accordance with all local
and national codes or any applicable standard that prevails. Auxiliary
connections are 3/4” on all models. Never use dielectric unions or
galvanized steel fittings. Use only copper or brass fittings. Sealant must
be used on all connections.
Never connect auxiliary connections to any system that uses glycol
or other solutions formulated for hydronic systems. These auxiliary
connections are to be used only in a potable water system. Failure
to follow this warning could result in severe personal injury or
death.
DO NOT use this indirect water heater in steam applications. Doing
so will result in damage to the water heater. Such damages ARE NOT
covered by warranty.
E. Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve
On all models, an appropriate temperature and pressure (T&P) valve
must be supplied and installed as detailed in the piping diagrams in
this installation manual.
Use both thread tape and pipe dope to install an NPT brass T&P
relief valve for hot water heaters, as required by local codes but
not less than valves certified as meeting the requirements for relief
valves for hot water heaters (ANSI Z21.22 / CSA 4.4) by a nationally
recognized lab that maintains periodic inspection of production
listed equipment. Make sure the relief valve is sized to the BTU/Hour
capacity of the water heater. The T&P valve must be plumbed down
so discharge can exit at least 6” above the structural floor. The relief
line cannot be in contact with any live electrical parts. If the relief
valve constantly weeps install an expansion tank. See expansion
tank manufacturer’s instructions for suggestions.
To avoid water damage or scalding due to relief valve operation:
•
Discharge line must be connected to relief valve outlet and
run to a safe place of disposal. Terminate the discharge line
in a manner that will prevent possibility of severe burns or
property damage should the relief valve discharge.
•
Discharge line must be as short as possible and the same
size as the valve discharge connection throughout its
entire length.
•
Discharge line must pitch downward from the valve
and terminate at least 6” above the floor drain, making
discharge clearly visible.
•
The discharge line shall terminate plain, not threaded, with
a material serviceable for temperatures of 375
o
F or greater.
•
Do not pipe discharge to any location where freezing could
occur.
•
No valve may be installed between the relief valve and
heater or in the discharge line. Do not plug or place any
obstruction in the discharge line.
•
Test the operation of the relief valve after filling and
pressurizing the system by lifting the lever. Make sure the
valve discharges freely. If the valve fails to operate correctly,
immediately replace with a new properly rated relief valve.
•
Test T&P valve at least once annually to ensure the waterway
is clear. If valve does not operate, turn the heater “off” and
call a plumber immediately.
•
Take care whenever operating relief valve to avoid scalding
injury or property damage.
FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH THE ABOVE GUIDELINES COULD
RESULT IN FAILURE OF RELIEF VALVE OPERATION, RESULTING
IN POSSIBILITY OF SUBSTANTIAL PROPERTY DAMAGE, SEVERE
PERSONAL INJURY, OR DEATH.
Do not thread a cap or plug into the relief valve or relief valve
line under any circumstances! Explosion and property damage,
serious injury, or death may result.