Halls SILVERLINE 86 LEAN TO, Руководство пользователя

Страница: 13 / 28

5. Assembly
Note that all the photos and illustrations in this section are viewed from the inside, except fig. 7 .
Join the two ends to the side section as in Z and AA . If you find that the corner plates are too rigid, slacken off
the bolts to allow more movement.
Mount the ridge bar (
842
or
372
or
07
) under the gable bars as in
V.
Fix ends of roof brace (
844
or
365
or
11
) to
gable ends as in Y . Attach the curved intermediate roof bars ( 368 ) as in W . Note that picture W also has the
roof stiffener attached.
The roof vent sills can only be positioned between two curved intermediate roof bars and should be fixed
loosely into place as in
X . To slide the sill bars into place, first insert a bolt at either end of the sills with the bolt
heads uppermost. Then slide roof vent sill ( 913 ) very carefully into position from the bottom of the
intermediate roof bars, inserting the two bolts at either end of the sill into the grooves of the bars. Ease into
position detail
X .
Before securing the intermediate roof bars ( 368 ) slide up THREE BOLTS in each to fit roof brace ( 844 or 365 or
11 ), roof stiffener ( 759 ) and to attach the bottom of ( 368 ) intermediate roof bars to the gutter.
Then use the bottom bolt in each intermediate glazing bar ( 368 ) to attach to the gutter. Then use the next
spare bolt to secure roof brace ( 844 or 365 or 11 ).
Now fit stiffeners (
759
) picking up spare bolts in intermediate roof bars, roof braces (
844
or
365
or
11
) as in
CC
and roof vent sill, fixing the top to the bolt in the intermediate glazing bar ( 368 ).
Lift the frame onto the prepared base. Drop a plumbline from the top of the greenhouse to make sure that the
ends are perfectly vertical and parallel to the plumbline.
Lightly secure it with a masonry pin (not supplied) driven halfway through one of the securing holes at the top.
Mark the other fifteen or sixteen or seventeen (depending on size of greenhouse) securing holes on the wall
and remove the frame and the masonry pin.
Drill the holes with a no. 10 bit, and plug with no. 10 wall plugs.
At this stage, a 12mm deep bead of mastic (not supplied) should be thoroughly applied between base and sill.
Replace the frame onto the base.
At this stage a 19mm x 16mm tanalised timber batten (not supplied) should be fitted between greenhouse and
wall fig. 7 .
Carefully drill securing holes through the timber batten and screw frame to wall. See detail in fig. 7 .
Finally, secure the frame to the base. If you have a prefabricated base (which can be bought as an optional
extra), follow the instructions that came with the base. If for any reason they are missing, you can find them on
our website
www.hallsgreenhouses.com on the Help and Advice tab where it says “Base Instructions”.
If you have made your own base, you will need to drill through the sill of the greenhouse as in Section 1 , fig. 2a .
A perfect seal between the timber batten and wall may be obtained by using a mastic or foam sealing tape (not
supplied).
IMPORTANT
Before finally tightening up all bolts, it is recommended that the sill, eaves, ridge and corner joints are sealed
using the silicon sealant (
37
) supplied.
This is achieved by releasing one joint at a time to ensure the silicon sealant penetrates each joint.
Finally, go round and tighten all nuts and bolts, but be careful not to tighten so firmly that you break the
threads on the bolts.
13