Troubleshooting
Problem
Possible Cause(s)
Solution
Leaking from
Chamber
1. O-Rings Not Seated
2. Knurled Nut Too Loose
3. Damaged Thimble
1.
If there is any issue with the o-ring in the way they
are seated this will need to be fixed. Remove the
thimble and repeat steps 3
– 5.
2.
If the nut is not tight enough, the O-rings will not
have good enough compression and will cause a
leak. Slightly tighten up the nut until a watertight seal
is achieved. It is better to tighten slightly at a time to
prevent overtightening.
3.
If there is a crack or hole in the thimble, it will fill
from the inside out. Turn off the water, disconnect
the power, carefully remove the thimble and replace
with a new one. If the thimble releases shards of
glass, the chamber and downstream plumbing will
need to be thoroughly checked. All glass shards
must be removed before re-connection.
High Water
Temperature
1. Low Flow Rate
2. Oversized System
1.
Particularly on the smaller model (GT7-2K), if
there are periods of low water usage or the water is
allowed to stand for long periods of time, the water
may be prone to heating up and may be either
lukewarm or hot. Generally, this only occurs on
systems that have a short distance between the
outlet and point of use. Whole house systems have
a larger length of cold plumbing pipes downstream
which will dissipate this heat.
2.
If the system is too large for the application, it is
likely that even with frequent water usage, the water
does not get a chance to cool down effectively. If
there are significant fluctuations in usage or flow
rates, it is good practice to install a thermal relief
valve (sold separately) on the outlet of the UV
chamber which can bleed water from the chamber
and keep temperatures below 56°C.
Hot SS Chamber
1. Low Usage
1.
As above, if the water is allowed to stand for
periods of time, the chamber will heat up naturally.
This is normal, however if the heating is excessive to
the point where it is causing damage to the chamber
or surrounding fixtures, a thermal relief valve (sold
separately) should be installed on the outlet of the
UV chamber, to bleed water from the chamber and
keep temperatures below 56°C.
Ballast is Alarming
1. Lamp Failure
2. False Alarm
1.
Usually if the ballast is alarming and showing a
red flashing status indicating light, the lamp has
failed and will require replacement. Before replacing
a lamp, it is best to check firstly for an external
cause for lamp failure turn off the power then check
for; Water ingress from either rain, or leaks or any
signs of moisture or condensation in/around the
electricals. Due to the elevated temperature of the
lamp, high humidity may cause condensate to form.
If there are no signs of leaking, check for signs of
shorts or charring on the lamp connection with the
ballast. Lastly inspect the tube to see if there are any
dark patches or if the filaments are burnt out.
2.
Sometimes the ballast may trigger a failure alarm
if the connection to the lamp is interrupted or
perhaps the connection is not solid enough. If the
above steps reveal no faults and the lamp is still
working (lighting up), turn the power off for 5