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9
Accurate Function Test
If a more accurate test is required to confirm that your heater is delivering the
specified heat output, two electricity meter readings will need to be taken from
the properties main electricity meter, with an exact one hour interval (ie: take
one meter reading and then a second reading exactly one hour later) then by
subtracting the first reading from the second reading the number of units (kilo
watts / kW) consumed can be calculated. Note that your heater is also rated in
kW hours.
The pool pump and heater will need to be running continuously during the test
(ie: with the heater red light ’On’) To avoid inaccurate results when performing
this test, it is important to refrain from using other high current consuming
appliances in the property (such as tumble dryer, showers, cookers etc). A large
domestic pool pump of 1 horsepower will draw less than 1-kW in a one hour
period. The conclusion of the test should prove that for example a 6-kW heater
and a ½ horsepower pump will draw between 6.3-kW ~ 6.5-kW in one hour. It is
impossible for an electric heater to waste energy, if it is drawing power then that
power will be turned into heat that will be transferred to the water.
Trouble Shooting
HEATER WILL NOT SWITCH TO ‘Heater on’ (RED LIGHT)
In most cases this will be the result of one of the following points not being met:
Possible cause 1:
The required water temperature has been achieved.
Remedy:
To confirm increase the required temperature by pressing the ‘P’
button to show the current required temperature, then use the arrow keys to
increase the value above the current water temperature, press the P button
again to store the required temperature.
Possible cause 2
: The ‘thermal safety cut out’ has tripped.
Remedy:
Remove the black button cover and press red button to re-set (see fig.
7) If a positive click is felt, the cause of the tripping
must
be investigated and
could be caused by a debris build-up or air pocket trapped inside the flow tube
of the heater.
