31
11.2 Table of setting the machine according to the sewing category
Commercial designation of the machine 4280 - 2XX - X
1) The thickness of a layer is measured using an engineer slide calliper with the pressure of jaws of about 10 N.
2) The values of tension are only orientative ones and it is necessary to adapt especially the tension of the shuttle thread according to the stiffness
of the material. An excessive tension of the threads when sewing soft materials causes material wrinkling.
3) There are in use various types of feeders with the purpose of avoiding imprinting the teeth in the lining leather. Otherwise, it is possible to use
any feeder.
11.3 Table of possible stitch widths of needles according to the sewing category
Standard sewing parameters
Seam Thick- Number Stitch Label
dis-
ness
o f
length n u m -
tance of one material
ber of
material layers
thread
layer
PES
1)
m m
m m
m m
1.2
0.8
2
2
70
1.6
1
2
25
40
Sewing
category
-100
-200
Setting as per
Instructions for service
3.6.4.1.2
3.3.1
3.6.4.2.3 3.7.8.1
3.7.8.2
3.5.5
chapter
Instructions manual
6.5
6.3
6.3
Instructions for assembling
2.4
4.5
Standard machine setting
Needle Sewing Position Width Feeder Presser Presser
Threads
Thread
size
speed of feed-
o f
-
t o p
t o p
tension
limiter
ing lever needle
pitch
roller
roller
2)
pin
plate of teeth diameter position needle shuttle
insert
thread thread
hole
3)
0.01mm st/min.
m m
m m
m m
m m
N
N
80
2500
1
1.2
0.4
35
10.5
3
1
L
90
2000
1
1.5
0.4
35
10.5
4.5
1.5
M
Sewing
Distance of seams (stitch width)
Maximum
category
1,2
1,6
2
2,4
stitch length
mm
mm
3
3
3
5
5
- 100
Light
- 200
Medium