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v5.3 J2428

This BROWN wire can also control a relay for Dome Light activation. When Option
#20 (section 24) is changed, this BROWN wire causes the dome light to turn on for
25 seconds every time the doors are unlocked with the transmitter.

19. Red/White Wire – Door Pin Alarm Input – Control Harness

The RED/WHITE wire is the Door Pin Alarm Input. This wire will accept any input
that supplies a negative (ground) when activated. (Most door pins go to ground
when the door is open, +12 Volts when closed.)

Most Ford vehicles are positive door pins that switch to +12 Volts when opened, you
will need to reverse the polarity before connecting to this RED/WHITE wire. Change
Option #23 (section 24) Negative/Positive Door Pin Switch.

The alarm is “Last door arming.” You should diode isolate the inputs of two or more
sensors on the same input wire.

If you choose not to use this alarm feature then permanently ground this
wire or program “No Alarm” Option #24 (section 24).

20. Red/Black Wire Diesel “wait to start” Control Harness

This wire is only used in diesel vehicle applications

– and is optional. This

wire can be hooked up to the “wait to start” light’s switched wire behind the dash.
If Option #9 (section 24) is set, this wire will feed information to the remote starter
as to when to crank the vehicle over. This wire is not polarity sensitive.

REQUIRED FINAL STEPS

Note: You must have hooked up all required wires and completed Initialization
(Step 11) to proceed forward.

21. Trying the Unit Out

WARNING: Be prepared to apply the brake during this testing.

A. Close the hood and fully apply the emergency brake

B. Place the vehicle in Park.

C. Turn the On/Off switch off then on – the red LED light will flash once.

D. Once all the wiring is checked and is correct, press the Start button on the

transmitter.

E. The car should start and continue to run for ten minutes. Make sure that the

engine shuts down if the car is shifted out of park, the hood is opened, the brake
is pressed or the start button is pushed again. If the car does not start, see the
Code Learning section under Special Cases.

22. The Antenna

Feed the antenna around under the dash and up the inside of the right or left
windshield post and over the top of the windshield. Clean the windshield with the
alcohol pad provided for maximum adhesion. Mount the last eight inches of the
antenna behind the rear view mirror. The more exposed the end of the antenna is, the
better the range performance. Now plug the end of the antenna into the remote
starter module.

In most vehicles you will get better range performance if the

antenna is pointing vertically downward from the top of the windshield

Note: The wiring section of the installation is now complete. Be sure to
cap all unused wires so as to prevent short circuits, and mount the module
securely under the dash. When tying up and mounting the unit, be sure to
avoid any moving parts (steering column, pedals) and sharp edges.

23. Trouble Shooting with the Self Diagnostics

The remote starter contains a built in diagnostic routine that will indicate why the
unit started or why the unit turned off the car the last time that the unit was used.

To activate the diagnostic mode for

why it turned off

, simply turn the On/Off

control switch to the “OFF” position. In a few seconds, the red LED light on the
module will flash 1 to 12 times to identify the problem. See the chart on the next
page for an explanation of the flashes:

flash

10/15 minute time out. Unit should be fine. Make sure transmitter is
working properly.

16. White/Black Wire – Ignition #3 – Control Harness

The WHITE/BLACK wire, is a ground output that acts just like the Ignition 1 or
Ignition 2 relay outputs (active in
the “run” and “crank” positions).

This wire is a 400 mA negative
transistor output and MUST be
set up to power a relay

(not

included). It can be used to power
the third ignition wire at the key
(necessary for most Ford vehicles).

This is the wire that can also be used to bypass a passive vehicle anti-theft system
by hooking it up to the Universal Bypass Module. See the Factory Anti-Theft
System section at the end of these instructions.

17A. Yellow and White – Keyless Entry Wires – 3 Wire Harness

The wires function as follows:

YELLOW

Negative Trigger – Unlock

Positive Trigger – Lock

WHITE

Negative Trigger – Lock

Positive Trigger – Unlock

Determine the polarity of your door lock system by using a test meter. For NEGATIVE
locks (the lock wire sees a ground signal briefly as the electric locks are locked) –
connect the YELLOW wire to the Unlock wire and the WHITE wire to the Lock wire.

For POSITIVE locks (the lock wire sees a +12 volt signal briefly as the electric
locks are locked but

does not see ground

when they are inactive) connect the

YELLOW wire to the Lock wire and the WHITE wire to the Unlock wire.

For REVERSING POLARITY (the lock wires sees a +12 volt signal briefly as the
electric locks are locked and

sees a ground

signal when they are inactive) follow

the diagram below:

Most VACUUM operated door lock systems require Option #18 (section 24) for Long
locks to be set.

17B. Green Wire – Trunk Release – 3 Wire Harness

The GREEN wire is the Trunk Release output which gives out a transistor ground
output when the unlock button is held for 4 seconds.

Again, this is a 400 mA

transistor ground output which MUST drive a relay

(not included).

18. Brown Wire – Accessory Pulse/Dome Light – Control
Harness

The BROWN wire is the Accessory Pulse output which gives out a momentary,
transistor ground output 10 seconds after the vehicle is remotely started. This is
important in some vehicles to control the defroster or to control the GM R.A.P.
system.

Again, this is a 400 mA transistor ground output which MUST

drive a relay

(not included).

Negative Dome Light

To 12 Volt
Constant
(15 Amp Fused)

Ground (-)

To Negative
Door Pin
(in vehicle)

Brown Wire

From

Remote Starter

87A

Positive Dome Light