5
Kickback is more likely to occur when any of the following conditions exist.
1. IMPROPER WORKPIECE SUPPORT
A. Sagging or improper lifting of the cut off piece can cause pinching of the blade and lead to kickback. (Figure 11)
B. Cutting through material supported at the outer ends only can cause kickback. As the material weakens it
sags, closing down the kerf and pinching the blade.
C. Cutting off a cantilevered or overhanging piece of material from the bottom up in a vertical direction can
cause kickback. The falling cut off piece can pinch the blade.
D. Cutting off long narrow strips (as in ripping) can cause kickback. The cut off strip can sag or twist closing
the kerf and pinching the blade.
E. Snagging the lower guard on a surface below the material being cut momentarily reduces operator control.
The saw can lift partially out of the cut increasing the chance of blade twist.
2. IMPROPER DEPTH OF CUT SETTING ON SAW
To make the most efficient cut, the blade should protrude only far enough to expose 1/2 of a tooth as shown in
figure 5. This allows the shoe to support the blade and minimizes twisting and pinching in the material. See the
section titled Cutting Depth Adjustment.
3. BLADE TWISTING (MISALIGNMENT IN CUT)
A. Pushing harder to cut through a knot, a nail, or a hard grain area can cause the blade to twist.
B. Trying to turn the saw in the cut (trying to get back on the marked line) can cause blade twist.
C. Over-reaching or operating the saw with poor body control (out of balance), can result in twisting the blade.
D. Changing hand grip or body position while cutting can result in blade twist.
E. Backing up the saw to clear blade can lead to twist if it is not done carefully.
4. MATERIALS THAT REQUIRE EXTRA ATTENTION
A.
Wet
lumber
B. Green lumber (material freshly cut or not kiln dried)
C. Pressure treated lumber (material treated with preservatives or anti-rot chemicals)
5. USE OF DULL OR DIRTY BLADES
Dull blades cause increased loading of the saw. To compensate, an operator will usually push harder which
further loads the unit and promotes twisting of the blade in the kerf. Worn blades may also have insufficient
body clearance which increases the chance of binding and increased loading.
6. LIFTING THE SAW WHEN MAKING BEVEL CUTS
Bevel cuts require special operator attention to proper cutting techniques – especially guidance of the saw.
Both blade angle to the shoe and greater blade surface in the material increase the chance for binding and
misalignment (twist) to occur.
7. RESTARTING A CUT WITH THE BLADE TEETH JAMMED AGAINST THE MATERIAL
The saw should be brought up to full operating speed before starting a cut or restarting a cut after the unit has
been stopped with the blade in the kerf. Failure to do so can cause stalling and kickback.
Any other conditions which could result in pinching, binding, twisting, or misalignment of the blade could cause
kickback. Refer to
Additional Safety Instructions
and
Operation
for procedures and techniques that will minimize
the occurrence of kickback.
MAINTENANCE
Cleaning
Use only mild soap and a damp cloth to clean the tool. Many household cleaners contain chemicals which could
seriously damage plastic. Do not use gasoline, turpentine, lacquer or paint thinner, dry cleaning fluids or similar
products. Never let any liquid get inside the tool; never immerse any part of the tool in a liquid.
Lubrication
Self lubricating ball and roller bearings are used in the tool and relubrication is not required. However, it is recom-
mended that, once a year, you take or send the tool to a service center for a thorough cleaning, inspection and
lubrication of the gear case.
Electric Brake (DW369 Only)
Your saw has an automatic electric brake which is designed to stop the blade from coasting in about two seconds,
after you release the trigger switch. It is useful when making certain cuts in wood where a coasting blade would
result in a wide, imprecise cut.
Occasionally, the brake will not function properly and won’t stop the saw in the 2 seconds discussed above. If
this condition persists, turn the saw on and off four or five times. If the brake still does not stop the blade in about
2 seconds, the problem may be worn brushes. Replace the brushes as described below and try the saw again. If
the problem still persists, have the tool serviced at a D
E
WALT certified service center.
Repairs
To assure product SAFETY and RELIABILITY, repairs, maintenance and adjustment (including brush inspection and
replacement) should be performed by certified service centers or other qualified service organizations, always
using identical replacement parts. (Refer to
Brushes
for brush replacement information.)
Brushes
CAUTION:
ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY
ADJUSTMENTS.
Inspect carbon brushes regularly by unplugging tool, removing the end cap and withdrawing the brush assembly.
Keep brushes clean and sliding freely in their guides. Always replace a used brush in the same orientation in the
holder as it was prior to removal. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped into their sides, and if either
brush is worn down to the line closest to the spring, the brushes must be replaced. Use only identical D
E
WALT
brushes. New brush assemblies are available at your local service center. Always replace the end cap after
inspecting or servicing brushes. The tool should be allowed to “run in” (run at no load without a blade) for
5 minutes before use to seat new brushes.
While “running in” DO NOT TIE, TAPE, OR OTHERWISE LOCK THE TRIGGER SWITCH ON. HOLD BY HAND ONLY.
Shoe Adjustment
CAUTION:
ALWAYS TURN OFF AND DISCONNECT TOOL BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY
ADJUSTMENTS.
Your shoe has been factory set to assure that the blade is perpen dicular to the shoe. If after extended use, you
need to re-align the blade follow the directions below:
ADJUSTING FOR 90 DEGREE CUTS
FIG. 14
1. Return the saw to 0 degrees bevel.
2. Place the saw on its side, and retract the lower guard.
3. Loosen the bevel adjustment lever (L). Place a square
against the blade and the shoe as shown in figure 14.
4. Using a hex wrench, turn the set screw on the underside
of the shoe until the blade and the shoe are both in flush
contact with the square. Retighten the bevel adjustment
lever.
ADJUSTING BEVEL ADJUSTMENT AND
DEPTH ADJUSTMENT LEVERS
It may be desirable to adjust the depth adjustment lever or the bevel adjustment lever. They may loosen in time and
hit the shoe before tighten ing. To tighten the levers, follow the steps below.
ADJUSTING THE BEVEL ADJUSTMENT LEVER (DW368, DW369)
NOTE:
The following instructions also apply to adjusting the DW367 and DW368 depth adjustment lever.
1. Using a small screwdriver, pry the lock ring off.
2. Remove the lever and rotate it in the desired direction about 1/8 of a revolution.
3. Reinstall the lock ring with the concave side against the lever.
ADJUSTING DEPTH ADJUSTMENT LEVER (DW369 ONLY)
1. Loosen the screw securing the depth adjustment lever.
2. Remove the depth adjustment lever and rotate it to the desired location, about 1/8 of a revolution.
3. Tighten the lever screw.
Blades
A dull blade will cause inefficient cutting, overload on the saw motor, excessive splintering and increase the possibility
of kickback. Change blades when it is no longer easy to push the saw through the cut, when the motor is straining, or
when excessive heat is built up in the blade. It is a good practice to keep extra blades on hand so that sharp blades
are available for immediate use. Dull blades can be sharpened in most areas; see SAWS-SHARPENING in the yellow
pages.
