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1. No Power to the Unit
a. Make sure that the unit is plugged into the receptacle
and check the breaker for the power supply
b. Check fuses F1 and F2, replace if necessary
c. Is there power to the switch at the front of the unit
from black to red? If yes but no light on the switch
then replace the switch.
2. No Power to D10 Temperature Controller
a. Check the leads coming from pin 11 and 12 on the
control where they connect at the front terminal
strip. If there is power at the terminal strip but
nothing on the display, remove the wires from the
D10 control at pins 11 and 12 to make certain the
wire has not failed. If the wires are delivering the
voltage, replace the D10 control.
b. The D10 Control relies on a supply from K3 Time
Delay Relay which is only active if the float switch
is “UP”, the timer has been wound and the green
light indicates Ready State has been reached. If the
D10 has power but will not signal the contactor,
troubleshoot these other components.
3. Water Does Not Fill The Unit When Started
a. Make sure that the water supply is connected at the
valve in the rear and that the water is turned on.
b. Check the fuse F4 and replace if necessary
c. The water valve can only turn on if the float switch is
not sending line voltage to the delay start relay K1 at
the L terminal.
i. Check for voltage between L and N terminals on K1.
If line voltage is present, check to make sure the float
switch is not stuck in the up position. Replace float
switch if necessary.
ii. If the fuse F4 is good, check for line voltage between
pin 12 on K1 and the red Line 2 wire at the valve. If
no voltage then replace the Delay Relay K1.
iii. If there is voltage between pin 12 on K1 and red Line
2 on the valve but no water flow, replace the valve.
4. Water Enters The Sink Only Briefly At Startup Or Will
Not Replenish Lost Water
1. Check the voltage across L and N on delay start relay K1.
If there is 230VAC there, and the float on the float switch
is in the bottom position, replace the float switch.
2. If when the water level is full and the float switch is
submerged, there is no water added to the sink by
the valve when you depress the float downward,
replace the float switch.
5. The Heater Does Not Warm The Bath For The “Ready State”
1. During the “Ready State”, the heater responds to a
signal from D10. Check for D/C signal to 3
+
/4
–
on the
3 SSRs. If there is voltage here but the relay does not
engage, replace the relay.
2. Check for voltage at Terminal 1 & 2 on the SSR to
trouble shoot the SSRs.
3. If there is power at the SSR output but not power to
and through the Over Temperature Thermostat on
the way to the heater shown here, then try to reset
the thermostat by pressing the Manual Reset Button.
If the thermostat will not reset, replace it. If the
thermostat does reset and this solves the problem,
please inform Dairy Tech that this has occurred so
that we are aware of it.
6. No Heat during the “Heating State”
1. During the heating state, the heaters are controlled
by the SSRs which receive signals from the D10
control. Note in the schematic that the D10 can
only work properly if the float switch is in the up
position, the unit has reached the “Ready State” as
indicated by the Green light, and the timer is wound.
Troubleshoot these areas if the D10 control does not
seem to signal the Relay 3
+
/4
–
pins.
2. If the temperature of the bath is above the set
point for the D10-Front control, it will not signal the
contactor to engage heaters.
3. Check for line voltage between SSR Terminal 2 and
both sides of the over temperature thermostat.
If voltage only to one side then try to reset the
thermostat by pushing the center button. If it will
not reset, replace the thermostat. If the thermostat
does reset and this solves the problem, please inform
Dairy Tech that this has occurred so that we are
aware of it.
4. Check for line voltage between SSR Terminal 2 and
both sides of the over temperature thermostat. If
voltage to both sides but no current drawn by the
heater, then replace the heating element.
7. Timer does not operate properly.
1. The timer should make the clock tick audibly when
wound clockwise. If not, replace the timer.
2. The timer can only function if the “Ready State” is
reached. This is when the CA-100 thermostat passes
Line 2 voltage to Relay K2 pin 14, the Green light is
on, and the float is in the “UP” position. Check these
conditions. Replace K2 cube relay if Line 1 voltage is
not available to the timer but these other conditions
are met.
Manual
Reset Button
