Cotic droplink Flare Gen2, Руководство пользователя

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How To Set Your Sag - Air Shock
Using a shock pump, put 170psi in the rear shock. Leave your forks as they are (if you've already set them up) or put
the recommended pressure for your weight in them according to the fork manufacturer's manual.
Check the shock and turn off any lockout or Climb Switch. This allows the shock to compress unhindered and ensures
a more accurate sag measurement.
Put your riding kit on. Or at least a fully loaded backpack if you usually ride with one. Make particular note of the
amount of water in your pack on your bottles. It's probably the heaviest thing you strap to your bike after yourself,
and it makes a difference to the suspension setup.
Set the saddle to your correct full pedalling height.
Mount the bike and go for a quick ride in a suitably quiet area. Whilst riding, bounce on the saddle a couple of times
to get the rear shock compressing as much as you can.
Pull in somewhere safe, stop, get off the bike and slide the o-ring on the shock down against the seal. Now get back
on the bike and with saddle at full height sit down and let your legs dangle off the pedals and make sure the o-ring
on the shock is still up against the seal. Now, gently get off the bike without moving the shock (using a kerb or
something as step helps).
Once off the bike, measure the distance between the o-ring and the shock body. Adjust the air pressure in the shock
accordingly to get the desired amount of sag.
How To Set Your Sag - Coil Shock
If using a coil shock, go through the process above, but get someone to measure the eye to eye length of the shock
with you on board to estimate the loaded length, then take this away from the unloaded length to get sag.
For example:
RocketMAX: The rider sits on board and measures 209mm eye to eye length. 230 – 209 = 21mm sag. At
this point the rider needs to add some preload to get the desired sag of 19mm.
You must not use more than 3 full turns (3mm) of preload on the spring measured from when you just take up the
slack and stop the spring rattling loosely on the shock. If your shock manufacturer recommends less than this, use
that guidance. If your shock manufacturer approves more than 3 turns of preload, you must still only use 3 turns of
preload. Your Cotic frame warranty is void if you use more than the manufacturer suggested preload, or the 3mm
limit specified here, whichever is the smaller. If you need more than 3 turns of preload, you need a stiffer spring anyway.
For example, 3mm of preload on a 500lb/in spring is 59lb of preload. At that point you would need the 550lb spring.
The progressive nature of the
drop
link
rear suspension means running 30% sag gives lots of grip and fluidity whilst
still having great support when moving the bike around.
It’s worth noting that as the weight distribution of all bikes is different, being dependent on saddle position, stem
length and bar width amongst many other things. It’s quite possible that with the correct sag at the rear of the bike,
your forks may end up with too much or too little sag because there’s more or less weight on them compared to your
previous bike. This is why we don't recommend any particular pressures, because even quite subtle differences in your
saddle/cockpit set up compared to anything we measure will result in different pressures being required for a given
level of sag. We always recommend setting up using sag measurement as your guide, not a generic shock pressure.
Once you’ve set the rear sag, check the front fork sag. For forks, we recommend running a fairly firmly sprung setup
with 20-25% sag coupled with 30% sag at the rear for general riding. The firmer forks keep your weight centred on
downhill sections. Setting your fork sag is easiest if you get someone to help. Again, with your riding gear on, mount
the bike and then ask a friend to hold the bars and clamp the front wheel between their legs. Once steady, stand up
on the pedals as if about to descend a trail. Bounce the forks once or twice to free them up, then stand up over the
bars in an 'attack' riding position. Get your friend to slide the o-ring on the fork to the seal. Now, without moving the
fork any more, move yourself rearward and then step off the bike. Measure the distance from the o-ring to the fork
seal. That is your sag. For a 160mm fork, you should be aiming for around 32-40mm sag (20-25%).
If the fork sag requires alteration, alter it, then check the rear sag again. Keep doing this procedure until both front
and rear sag is set as desired by the rider, within the manufacturer recommendations for the frame and fork.