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4. Crosscutting.
Crosscutting is the term used to describe cuts
made in timber across the grain. This type of cut
requires the use of the MITRE GAUGE. This includes
bevel cutting, mitre cutting and compound mitre
cutting (described later in this chapter).
To perform a cross cutting operation, the work is
firmly held against the mitre gauge head, as
shown in Fig. 18, with the mitre gauge bar located
in either the left or right hand groove in the table.
With the timber carefully lined up with the saw
blade, the mitre gauge is gently moved along
the groove, past the saw blade, producing the
desired cut.
Long workpieces should be supported. A simple
arrangement is to clamp a piece of plywood to
a sawhorse or support, as shown in Fig. 18.
For maximum accuracy when using the mitre gauge, always favour one side of the groove In the
table. In other words, don’t move the mitre gauge from side to side while cutting but keep one side of
the bar riding against one side of the groove.
When using the left hand groove, hold the workplece firmly against gauge head with your left hand,
and grip the lock knob and push with your right hand. When using the right hand groove, hold the
work piece with the right hand and grip the lock knob with the left.
The graduations on the mitre gauge provide accuracy for average woodworking. In some cases
where extreme accuracy is required, when making angle cuts for example, make a trial cut and then
recheck it with an accurate square or protractor.
REMEMBER: ALWAYS remove the rip fence before attempting to cross cut.
Fig.18
Mitre Gauge Adjustment
To produce an accurate cut at 90
O
you should check the gauge
as follows:
1.
Loosen the lock knob and, using a square as shown in Fig.
19, set the bar at 90
O
to the body.
Tighten the lock knob and re-check with the square to
ensure no movement has taken place during the tightening
process.
If necessary readjust.
2.
Slacken off the pointer securing screw and zero the pointer.
Fig.19
Auxiliary facing
Notches are provided in the mitre gauge body for
attaching an AUXILIARY FACING, to make it easier
to cut longer pieces. Ensurethe facing does not
extend so far as to interfere with the proper operation
of the saw blade guard.
Select a suitable piece of smooth straight wood, drill
two holes through it and attach it with screws.
HINT
: Glue a piece of sandpaper to the face of the
mitre gauge head or auxiliary facing. This will help
prevent the workpiece from creeping while it Is being
cut.
Fig.20
19