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its strength diminishes. Eventually the thermal stops rising 
and any moisture contained in the once warm air condenses, 
forming puffy cumulus clouds. These clouds, which mark the 
tops of thermals, are usually between 2000' and 5000' high. 

THERMAL SOARING

It takes a lot of concentration to thermal soar effectively. A 
sailplane can fl y along the edge of a thermal and unless the 
pilot is carefully watching the model he may not realize the 
opportunity to gain some altitude. Because most thermals 
are relatively small, a couple hundred feet [60m] or less at 

400' [121.9 m] altitude) compared to the rest of the sky, the 

sailplane will rarely fl y directly into the thermal and start rising. 

Generally, the sailplane will fl y into the edge or near a thermal 
and the effects the thermal has on the plane may be almost 
unnoticeable. As the sailplane approaches a thermal, the 
wing tip that reaches the rising air fi rst will be lifted before the 
opposite wing tip. This causes the sailplane to “bank” and turn 
away from where we would like the sailplane to go.

When you are thermal soaring, try to fl y as smooth and straight 

as possible. Trim the sailplane to fl y in a straight line and only 
touch the controls when you have to. Watch the sailplane 
carefully and it will tell you what it is encountering. 

When the sailplane fl ies directly into a thermal it will either start 
rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough to start 

circling, especially in a contest where every second counts. 
Fly straight ahead until you feel like you are in the strongest 
lift, fl y a couple of seconds farther, so that your circle will 
be centered in the strongest lift, and then start circling in a 
fairly tight but smooth turn. When the sailplane is low the turns 
have to be tighter to stay in the strongest lift. As the plane 
gains altitude, the turns can be larger and fl atter. The fl atter 
the turn, the more effi cient the plane is fl ying. If you see the 
sailplane falling off on one side of the circle, move your circle 
over into the stronger lift. Thermals move along with the wind 
so as you circle you will be swept along with it. Be careful 
when thermaling, that you don’t get so far downwind you can’t 
make it back to the fi eld to land. 

If the sailplane is fl ying along straight and all of a sudden turns, 
let the plane continue to bank. You may have to add some 
rudder to keep it banked. Continue turning until the sailplane 
has completed a 270 degree turn, ¾ of a circle. Straighten 
out the bank and fl y into whatever turned the plane. If you 
encounter lift, and you won’t every time, start circling just as 
you did when fl ying directly into a thermal. 

Thermals are generated all day long, but the strongest thermals 

are produced when the sun is directly overhead. Some of 
these thermals can be very large and you may fi nd it hard 
to get out of them. If you fi nd your sailplane getting too high, 
don’t dive the plane to get out of the lift. Sailplanes are very 
effi cient aircraft and they will build up a lot of speed and could 
come apart in the rough air of a thermal. The easiest way to 
lose altitude is to apply full rudder and full up elevator. This 
will put the sailplane into a tight spin that will not over stress 

the airframe but it will enable it to lose altitude very quickly. 

This is especially helpful if the sailplane gets sucked into a 

cloud or it gets too high to see. The twirling action will give the 
sun a better chance of fl ashing off of the wing and catching 

your attention. 

In a gentle thermal, when you are high enough and want to 
leave the thermal, add a little down trim to pick up speed and 
fl y 90 degrees to the direction of the wind. If you are not real 
high and want to fi nd another thermal, you may want to look 
upwind of the last thermal. The same source that generated 
the fi rst thermal is probably producing another. Just watch out 
for “sink” which is often found behind and between thermals. 

As you might expect, with all this air rising, there is also air 

sinking. This air is the sailplane pilot’s nightmare that can 
really make soaring challenging. Sinking air is usually not as 
strong as the thermal in the same area, but can be very strong. 
Down drafts of many hundreds of feet (meters) per minute 
are common on a good soaring day. These down drafts can 
make a sailplane look like it is falling out of the air. Because 
of this, it is important that you do not let the sailplane get too 
far downwind.

When encountering sink, immediately turn and fl y 90 degrees 
to the direction of the wind. Apply a little “down elevator” and 

pick up some speed to get out of the sink as fast as possible. 

Every second you stay in the sink is precious altitude lost. 

POINTERS FOR CONTEST FLYING

Pay Attention: Pay close attention to the sailplanes fl ying 
before you. Watch them and try to establish where and when 
the thermals are being formed. The thermals are often formed 
in cycles and are fairly regular, so if you keep track of the 
time intervals you will have a good idea of when and where 
a thermal may be generated. 

Watch The  Birds: Thermals suck up small insects that many 

birds love to eat. A bunch of swallows fl ying around in one 
area may indicate a thermal. Soaring birds such as hawks, 

vultures and eagles are the best thermal indicators. They not 
only show you where the thermal is but they also show you 
where the center is. These “Masters of the sky” will often fl y 
right along with the sailplanes.

Practice Those  Landings: Most thermal contests are won or 
lost during the landing. Establish a particular landing pattern 
and try to stick to it for all landings. Learn to shift your pattern 
to account for the wind and particular fl ying fi eld characteristics. 

Concentrate: Keep your eye on your sailplane during your 
contest fl ights. Have a helper or your counter watch the other 
sailplanes in the air. Sometimes your sailplane will wiggle so 
quickly or gently that you may miss it if you are not paying 

Содержание Sophisticated Lady GPMA1959

Страница 1: ... pilot for added realism and aT tail for smoother handling in turbulence GPMA1959 Wingspan 78 in 1980 mm Wing Area 674 in 43 5 dm Weight 27 30 oz 765 850 g Wing Loading 5 8 6 4 oz ft 18 20 g dm Length 42 in 1060 mm Requires 2 channel radio with 2 servos hi start Recommended Products FUTK6900 Futaba 6EX 6 Channel FASST 2 4GHz Computer Radio FUTM0004 2 Futaba S3004 Standard Ball Bearing Servos HCAM6...

Страница 2: ... act of using the user assembled product the user accepts all resulting liability If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase To make a warranty claim Hobby Services send the defective part 3002 N Apollo Dr Suite 1 or item to Hobby Services Champ...

Страница 3: ...ries required to finish the Sophisticated Lady ARF Order numbers are provided in parentheses 1 4 Foam Rubber GPMQ1000 64 Rubber Bands HCAQ2020 ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES In addition to common household and hobby tools this is the short list of the most important items required to assemble the Sophisticated Lady ARF Great Planes Pro CA glue is recommended Thin CA 1 2 oz 15g Thin Pro CA GPMR600...

Страница 4: ...ve any excess material from the joiner to allow the panels to fit together Gather everything required for gluing the wing joiner and wing together including 30 minute epoxy mixing sticks epoxy brush 12 304mm long dowel or wire denatured alcohol and paper towels Mix up 1 2 oz 14 8cc of 30 minute epoxy Working quickly pour a generous amount into the joiner pocket of one wing half Use your wire or do...

Страница 5: ...dhere to it Position the fin on the fuselage and move the cable to check that it moves freely 4 Use 6 minute epoxy to glue the fin to the top of the fuselage Wipe off the excess epoxy with a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol Use masking tape to hold the fin in position aligned with the centerline of the fuselage and parallel to the sides Drill a 3 32 Hole 1 2 Deep in the Center of the Hing...

Страница 6: ...E STABILIZER 1 Draw a centerline on the bottom of the stabilizer Draw a line 3 32 2 4mm on each side of the centerline Use a hobby knife to cut and remove the covering only between the two outside lines DO NOT cut the wood under the covering as this will weaken the stabilizer causing it to fail 2 Use 6 minute epoxy to glue the stabilizer to the top of the fin Use a square to check that the stabili...

Страница 7: ...nd harden the holes by applying two or three drops of thin CA in each hole After the CA has cured attach the control horn to the rudder using two 2 56 x 3 8 9 5mm screws and the control horn back plate 3 Use a 44 or 3 32 2 4mm drill bit to enlarge the outer hole in the second nylon control horn 4 Insert the quick connector through the previously drilled hole in the control horn Install a 2mm washe...

Страница 8: ...d receiver battery in 1 4 6 4mm thick foam Position the receiver and receiver battery in the fuselage as shown Remove the receiver switch cover from the receiver switch Position the switch cover on the outside of the fuselage between the receiver and receiver battery Mark the two mounting screw holes and the switch opening on the fuselage Use a sharp hobby knife to cut out the switch opening and a...

Страница 9: ...od outer pushrod tube supports over the elevator outer pushrod tube 12 Center the elevator servo Trim a servo arm to fit perpendicular to the elevator servo Remove the other unused servo arms 13 Install a quick connector on the elevator servo arm following the same procedure used to install it on the elevator control horn 14 Install the servo arm on the elevator servo Route the elevator cable thro...

Страница 10: ...ockpit to make sure it will not affect the plastic RC car paints usually work well for this Do not paint the edges of the cockpit where the canopy will attach or the glue will not hold as well After the canopy is glued on the canopy frame decal will cover the glue joint After the paint has dried apply the instrument decal to the instrument panel 2 Using a needle nose pliers open the eyelet slightl...

Страница 11: ... sparingly 7 Remove the canopy and install the wing Only a couple of large rubberbands are needed to hold the wing at this time You will need to use at least eight rubber bands for flying 8 Trim the aft end of the canopy to follow the shape of the wing 9 Attach the threaded tow hook to the bottom of the fuselage by threading a 3mm nut and a 3mm washer all the way onto the tow hook Apply a drop of ...

Страница 12: ...n the servo arms 2 With the transmitter and receiver still on check all the control surfaces to see if they are centered If necessary adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces ELEVATOR MOVES DOWN RUDDER MOVES RIGHT 2 Channel Radio Set Up Standard Mode 2 3 Make certain that the control surfaces respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram If any of the controls ...

Страница 13: ...OTE The throws are measured at the widest part of the elevator and rudder These are the recommended control surface throws HIGH RATE LOW RATE ELEVATOR 3 8 9 5mm 22 deg Up 3 8 9 5mm 22 deg Down 3 16 4 8mm 11 deg Up 3 16 4 8mm 11 deg Down RUDDER 1 1 2 38mm 24 deg Right 1 1 2 38mm 24 deg Left 1 25 4mm 16 deg Right 1 25 4mm 16 deg Left BALANCE THE MODEL C G More than any other factor the C G center of...

Страница 14: ...after the weight has been installed BALANCE THE MODEL LATERALLY 1 With the wing level have an assistant help you lift the model by the nose and the bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin Do this several times 2 If one wing always drops when you lift the model it means that side is heavy Balance the airplane by adding weight to the other wing tip An airplane that has been laterally balanced wil...

Страница 15: ...otifying the airport operator I will give right of way and avoid flying in the proximity of full scale aircraft Where necessary an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft 3 Where established I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless reckle...

Страница 16: ...be able to launch it at just the right speed so it soars straight ahead in a long and impressive glide path Adjust the trims on your transmitter to get the plane to fly straight ahead in a smooth glide path Once you get the hang of launching it you can try turning the plane during the trim flights by gently applying a touch of right or left rudder You can also try flaring the landing by slowly app...

Страница 17: ... direction the plane is flying and look over your shoulder to watch the model Don t worry about accomplishing very much on your first flights Use these flights to get the feel of the controls and the Sophisticated Lady ARF s flying characteristics Try to keep the plane upwind and just perform some gentle S turns always turning into the wind until it is time to set up for landing Have a helper adju...

Страница 18: ...plane getting too high don t dive the plane to get out of the lift Sailplanes are very efficient aircraft and they will build up a lot of speed and could come apart in the rough air of a thermal The easiest way to lose altitude is to apply full rudder and full up elevator This will put the sailplane into a tight spin that will not over stress the airframe but it will enable it to lose altitude ver...

Страница 19: ...or away from the sink both of which are desirable BALLASTING In strong wind conditions you may want to add ballast weight to the sailplane to increase its wing loading which increases its normal flying speed Increasing the weight of your sailplane does not change its glide ratio but it does make it fly faster Because of the faster sink rate you need to be very cautious when ballasting for a therma...

Страница 20: ...19 ...

Страница 21: ...Entire Contents 2011 Hobbico Inc All rights reserved GBGA1059 v1 1 Mnl www carlgoldbergproducts com ...

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