Bushman DC190-L, Руководство пользователя и инструкции по эксплуатации

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6
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Check:
•
Correct power supply and the polarity of the connections are correct (page 2)
•
There is correct ventilation to the rear of the fridge (page 3 and page 9)
•
The fuse is not blown
•
You have given the fridge enought time to cool down (24 hours)
•
The red LED error light (page 7)
VOLTAGE
(Start / stop or compressor doesn’t run long enough / fridge not cold enough)
Danfoss compressors are sensitive to voltage. When the compressor starts it will draw approximately 8A for
1⁄2 second to turn the compressor over. When this 8A load is applied to the power source, the voltage can
drop considerably, causing the compressor to turn off again.
This often happens:
a) at night-time when the battery gets a bit lower (no solar input), or
b) when the car alternator hasn’t been started for a while (no alternator input), or
c) there is a weak spot between the battery and the fridge (weak join, solder, undersized wire), or
d) when the fridge is not wired directly to the battery terminals (via BMS, buss bar, shared circuit).
1. To identify this issue, use a different, stand-alone power supply and wire directly. Or, get an auto electrician
to test the fridge circuit under a 10 A load:
Connect the red and black power wires from the compressor directly to the terminals of a stand-alone, fully
charged deep cycle 12V battery. It is important to run these two wires directly to the battery terminals, without
any battery management, shunt, power distribution or buss bars. Let the fridge run for a couple of days. If the
fridge now runs correctly, there was a power supply issue somewhere.
EXCESSIVE ICE BUILD UP (Ice builds up in a few days or the fridge is not getting very cold)
Ice will build up slowly over time on the back of the fridge. This is a normal part of the operation of a low-
power cooling system. However, it should build up slowly over many weeks.
Excessive ice build-up is a problem as the ice eventually insulates the cooling element and hinders the
fridge’s ability to cool. In this instance, turning the thermostat up to flat out (7) will cause ice to build up even
faster. Therefore, slowing the ice build-up from the start is the key. Here are the top 5 things to check:
1. The rubber seals from the doors are making contact all the way around the fridge cabinet. When the
doors are closed, visually inspect the rubber seals to make sure they are making a smooth line of contact
all the way around each door. Even a small bump or gap will let air get inside the fridge and ice will build
up quickly. This issue is most prominent when the door has been removed at some stage (often during
installation, or when the hinges have been swapped to the LHS). See Resetting the door seals
(page 5)
2. Rubber seals are clean
•
Check the rubber seals are clean and free from dust or grime. If not, clean the rubber seals and the
front edge of the fridge cabinet with warm, soapy water.
3. Thermostat set correctly
•
The thermostat should be set on the lowest number to keep your fridge cold. Do not use setting 7 as
this causes very quick ice build-up. See Thermostat Setting
(page 4)
4. Warm / damp items kept out of the fridge
•
Try and keep hot or wet items out of the fridge cabinet as they are a prime source of moisture.
5. Keep some space in-between items, especially on the top shelf
•
It’s helpful to keep some space between your items in the fridge so that the cold air can circulate,
especially on the top shelf. This will also help you to use a lower thermostat number.
Once you have checked these items, we recommend defrosting the fridge and starting again with the
thermostat on a lower number. See Defrosting
(page 5)