For most installations, simple hand tools are adequate if replacing the factory speakers. If the factory locations, or other
convenient mounting locations are not used, you will need power tools for drilling and cutting plastics and metal. A good
starting list is summarized below:
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Tape measure and ruler
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Marking pen and starting punch
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Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers (small and medium sizes)
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Nylon wire bundle ties
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Pliers: standard vice-grip and needle nose styles
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Light-duty trim pry-bar for removing door trim
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Cutting shears or nibbling tool for cutting thin and medium gauger metal
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Wire cutters, wire strippers, electrical tape, crimping pliers and appropriate
crimp-on terminals
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Power drill with appropriate sized drill bits (1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" to start)
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Electric jig-saw (sabre saw)
We strongly recommend that you have your Blaupunkt subwoofers professionally installed. If you choose to do your own
installation please note the following important information:
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Before cutting any trim or metal make sure your final installation will clear all moving parts, factory cables, wires, and
hoses.
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Be sure to leave enough slack in the wiring to prevent the need to pull or street wires if service is needed later.
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Tie down all loose wires with nylon wire ties to prevent them from getting caught in moving parts or shorted out due to
abrasions from moving over time.
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Never mount speakers in a vehicle’s wheel wells or areas where they may be subjected to moisture or road spray.
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Proper speaker polarity must be observed. The polarity positive side is marked by a (+) symbol or a red colored dot. At
low frequencies woofers out of phase will acoustically cancel one another thus resulting in little bass output.
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Although components used in Blaupunkt speakers exceed most production quality standards, speaker frames can still be
twisted by improper installation on uneven surfaces.
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This can occur when surfaces are heavily padded or carpeted and the screws are unevenly tightened or over tightened.
The results will be a damaged voice coil assembly due to knocking it off center.
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When installing more than one speaker per amplifier channel be sure that the combined impedance values will not
damage the amplifier should they be too low (i.e., a common minimum impedance value of 2 ohms is common).
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Speaker wire size should be sufficient to carry the full power of the amplifier (16 gauge or larger is sufficient in about 90%
of all audio systems assuming <100 watt amplifiers and wire runs under 20 feet)
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Speaker wires should be electrically and physically isolated from the vehicle and routed away from any factory wiring that
carries high currents or noises (e.g., ABS brake systems and engine computer signals)
FINAL SYSTEM TEST & TROUBLESHOOTING
Once the system is installed, turn on the total audio system main power switch and SLOWLY turn the volume up using a
music selection with a full range of frequencies. If you experience any of the following problems take corrective action
immediately to prevent damage to the speaker, amplifier, and vehicle.
I
NSTALLATION
T
OOLS
I
NSTALLATION
G
UIDELINES
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7
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NO SOUND AT ALL -or-
VERY LOW SOUND LEVELS
Verify the amplifiers are on and gain controls at mid-position
Verify RCA level signals exist with small test amplifier
Verify power, ground, and RCA cabling to all channels is correct
Verify adequate voltage to the amps (12-14 volts in most vehicles)
Install another outboard speaker at the amp to see if sound comes out
Replace the amplifier
Verify adequate voltage to the amps (12-14 volts in most vehicles)
Check that speaker load impedances are 2 ohms or greater per channel
Check for a pinched wire or wire shorted to vehicle ground somewhere
Lower input gain to amp - you may be over-driving the input stage
The amp must have adequate ventilation - it may be getting too hot
POWER AMP CYCLES ON/OFF -or-
HIGH DISTORTION LEVELS
