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Setup and Adjustment
Make absolutely certain that the rudder leading edge is straight, with positively no taper or kick
back. The boat hates this, as it lifts the rear and causes all sorts of issues.
Set the turn fin so that the top of the fin is parallel with the top of the sponson.
If using an adjustable strut, set it flat on the ski (0 degrees).
Set rudder throw to
10 degrees right and left
. Use the least amount of throw on the servo arm,
and use your radio’s ATV or end point adjustment to reduce it further. Do not exceed these
throws!
Run the boat. If it looks loose at full throttle, adjust the fin angle back slightly.
Measure from a convenient point, like the rudder. Adjust the fin 1/16 inch, no more.
Do not exceed 1/16 inch increments. The fin adjustment is very, very sensitive, and it is easy to
go too far.
As you adjust the fin forward, the boat rides loose, and adjusted back, the boat rides wet.
If the boat rides up in the turn fin, especially with left rudder, the fin is angled too far forward.
Tips
Do not change the ride attitude or height. Leave the AOA alone. The hull is good for over 100
mph as is.
The boat will not turn sharp left. You can make left corrections, but if you push it, it will flip.
Try different props. The Zipp 2716 is a good start We also like the ABC 3016/2 and 3018/2.
Do not cut the rudder. You need all you can get to control prop walk.
If you heat race in rough water, you can add a bit of dihedral on the left sponson bottom to help
keep the boat locked into turns when it gets really bad. Just sand the bottom of the LH sponson
so that the outside is .080 off the bench and seal with epoxy.
Remember, this is a different boat design than most other outriggers.
If you need advice, contact us.
If you take advice from others, consider what experience they have with JAE design hulls.
If someone tells you to make changes to the strut, ski, angle of attack, etc., maybe consider the
value of this advice.