JP Black Trimline
5523672
Low-tack double-sided tape
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STEP-BY-STEP
This assembly manual is divided into six sections: 1. Hull Frame Assembly; 2. Hull Skins &
Profiling; 3. Deck Substructure; 4. Deck Assembly; 5. Finishing; 6. Motor & Radio Installation. All
sections are supported by a build sequence whilst stages 1, 2, 3 & 4 are additionally supported by
an exploded illustration (with numbered parts) for easy identification. Please follow these steps in
precise order. Find yourself a clear, flat and solid surface for assembly and make sure you have all
the components, glues and materials necessary to complete a stage before starting it.
Section 1: Hull Frame Assembly
Note that the hull frames are assembled upside-down on a solid, flat surface.
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1. Locate all the parts shown above, along with the stand parts (57 & 58 – see parts drawings)
and give all the brown, laser cut edges a light sanding to aid glue adhesion. Glue the stand end
plates (57) to the stand nameplates (58). Temporarily attach the deck support (10) to your flat
building surface using six or eight small pieces of paper-thin low-tack double-sided tape. This will
ensure that no twisting occurs during assembly of the frames and keel.
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2. Glue frames 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 vertically into their respective locations and leave to cure.
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3. Take the four keel doubler pieces (9a), orientate them correctly, then glue two each side of the
keel (9) adjacent to the marked propeller shaft slot, which is indicated by double dotted lines. Glue
just one of the keel trebler pieces (9b) in position.
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4. Lift the keel, flip it over and, using a razor saw, very carefully cut through part 9 (only) to open
out the propeller tube slot. Be very careful not to cut into part 9b. Keeping the keel absolutely
straight, glue the second keel trebler (9b) in position (to mirror the first) and clamp until the glue
has fully cured.
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5. Dry fit the keel, check it for accuracy, then remove, add glue and refit.
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6. Glue the angled transom (8) in position.
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7. Glue the chine stringers (11) in place from frame 1 to frame 8 and add the gunwales (12), leave
to properly cure then remove the completed frame assembly from your building board.
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8. Using the supplied M3 nuts, bolts and washers (4b, 4c & 4d), bolt parts 4 and 4a together
then glue part 4 (only) between frame 3 and 5, as shown. Do not glue 4a to the keel as this will
need to be removed in order to fit the motor at a later stage.
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9. Glue the servo and battery tray (7) in position atop part 5 & 6.
Section 2: Hull Skins and Profiling
Fitting the hull skins is by far the most challenging part of any boat build, however with care and
attention it can also be one of the most rewarding. The old proverb ‘measure twice, cut once’ very
much applies here. In other words, plan thoroughly before you take action. In this instance that
means, carry out a dry run before fitting the parts, know in advance which glue you’re going to
use, work out how you plan to apply the skins and how you intend to hold the parts in place while
the glue is setting. Make sure you have all the required tools and materials to hand and then
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