Section BXM‐301‐10H‐20A
030‐101901 Rev. A
R
8
1608IARA
V
Outdoor site preparation tools
V
Safety gloves and glasses (optional)
V
Power hoist or lifting equipment
V
Assorted screwdrivers
V
Appropriate ground wire and equipment
Cable Preparation Tools and Equipment
V
Cable opening and preparation tools
V
Proper lengths and types of communications cables
V
Proper lengths and types of power cables and fittings
V
Cable management supplies (ties, clips, markers, etc.)
V
ESD protection
3.5
Removing the Knock‐outs
Knock‐outs should be removed prior to mounting the cabinet.
Do not remove knock‐outs if they will not be used. See Figure 9
or Table 1 for knock‐out sizes, quantities, and locations, and fol
low the steps below to remove the knock‐outs.
1.
Open the cabinet door.
If knock‐outs will need to be re
moved, using a 216 tool or can wrench, open the large front
door of the Boxer‐30 cabinet to access the knock‐outs.
2.
Remove knock‐out(s).
Prior to mounting the cabinet, per
company practice, remove as many appropriately‐sized
knock‐outs at the bottom of the cabinet as needed for the
specific application (consider ground, power, and com
munication cable access needs, venting, and whether
optionally mounting a battery box with the cabinet).
3.
Install rubber grommets or conduit fittings.
Install either
a heavy‐duty rubber grommet or the conduit fitting of
choice (liquid‐tight recommended) in each selected
knock‐out hole. If an optional vent is desired, the provided
vent cap can be installed in one of the smaller knock‐outs.
4.
Close the cabinet door.
Once the knock‐outs are removed,
lock the door using the 216 tool or can wrench, to minimize
possible product damage and personal injury.
3.6
Mounting the Cabinet
The Boxer‐30 cabinet is typically mounted outdoors, above
ground, on a concrete pad. Top and bottom mounting brackets
facilitate wall or H‐frame mounting. Concrete pad mounting is
typically used in conjunction with the optional Boxer battery
box. An optional pad mount template kit is available for easy
and convenient cement anchor placement. All mounting hard
ware (not provided) must be capable of supporting the weight
of the Boxer‐30 cabinet plus the weight of any equipment
mounted in it. For convenience, lift hooks or ears are provided
for temporary lifting purposes (do not use lift ears from which
to hang the cabinet in permanent installations). Always use ap
propriate life equipment. Run all cables to the mounting
location, perform any trenching, trench cable placements, and
backfilling prior to the cabinet mounting, and clear the installa
tion area of any debris, vegetation, and unneeded equipment
or obstacles.
‐ KNOCK‐OUT REMOVAL NOTE ‐
Always remove knock‐outs where holes are desired before
mounting cabinet or securing the battery box, regardless of the
knock‐out type and regardless of the order of the mounting steps.
All knock‐outs should be knocked out from the inside of the
cabinet, except for the small 0.575” knock‐outs, which are to be
knocked out from the outside of the cabinet.
3.6.1
Mounting on a Concrete Pad
The Boxer‐30 cabinet can be mounted on a concrete pad, typi
cally with an optional Boxer battery box (and “side car”). When
mounting with a battery box, remove the five small knock‐outs
on the bottom of the Boxer‐30 cabinet which match holes in the
top surface of the battery box. To facilitate the concrete anchor
bolt placement, order and use the optional A90‐BXA19‐PT1
pad mount kit (listed in Table 2) for complete details on pad‐
mounting the Boxer‐30 cabinet.
The mounting surface and hard
ware used must be able to support the combined weight of the cabinet
and the equipment mounted inside the cabinet. Always use appro
priate lift equipment.
3.6.2
Mounting on an H‐Frame
To mount the Boxer‐30 on an H‐frame, follow company prac
tice or the steps below. See Figure 14 for an H‐frame mounting
illustration.
The approved mounting surface, framework and hard
ware used must be able to support the combined weight of the cabinet
and the equipment mounted inside the cabinet. Use appropriate lift
equipment.
1.
Determine exact mounting location in H‐frame.
Select and
mark the exact horizontal and vertical final mounting loca
tion within the H‐frame. The spacing between the top and
bottom horizontal‐rail mounting holes should be 62.6”
(on centers). Westell recommends leaving a comfortable
installer working height, leave adequate space under Box
er‐30 for cable access, as well as in front of the cabinet to
allow the door to open, and at the sides in the event of any
multiple installations.
2.
Remove knock‐outs.
If not removed already, see the steps
in Paragraph 3.5 (
Removing the Knock‐outs
) to remove the
knock‐outs where any cable access holes (or holes for
mounting the optional battery box) are desired. Note that
if a Boxer “Side Car” cabinet is being installed with the
Boxer‐30, remove the small knock‐outs on the Boxer‐30's
right side wall to accommodate the side car's mounting
bolts and any cable knock‐outs.
3.
Prepare the H‐frame mounting hardware (insert rail
nuts).
Bring the appropriate rail nuts (to secure the cabi
net to the H‐frame) to the installation site. All mounting
hardware must be able to support the weight of the cabinet
plus the weight of the added internal equipment. Insert at
least three rail nuts into each rail (compress the spring on
the nuts as needed) and place them at the desired mount
ing hole locations.
4.
Lift cabinet.
Lift the cabinet to the mounting height. If us
ing lift equipment, use two cables or straps of equal length,
one connected to each lift ear, for a balanced symmetrical
lift. The lift ears are provided at the top of the cabinet, one
at each side wall, and each lift ear has a 2” hole in it to ac
cept large straps or hoisting cables. Do not use the lift ears
for permanent mounting.
