3
Workspace Considerations
As with doing any type of kit assembly, it is best to have a large, clean work area with adequate lighting. Taking a
few minutes to establish a good work area will save time by eliminating lost parts and preventing assembly
errors. A heat-resistant work surface is recommended for the crossover assembly portion. When working with the
cabinets, it is important to cover the work surface with a cloth or foam layer to protect the speaker finish. The
foam wrap that is around the speaker cabinets will work well for this, making sure it is free from dust or other
debris.
Getting Organized
To prepare for the kit assembly, you need to do some basic unpacking and organizing first. Open the large
speaker cabinet box(es) and remove the speakers from the packaging. You will need to unwrap the cabinets
themselves, saving the wrap to protect your work surface. Remove the baffles from the cabinet, and place the
baffle screws someplace safe. Proceed to unpack binding posts and other packaged items.
Assembly
1. Install Port Tubes
The port tubes that are included with your kit need to be installed into the cabinet. In this particular kit, the
required port dimensions are 1-3/8" in diameter by 4-1/2" in length. This allows us to use only the main section of
the 1-3/8" adjustable port tube, which is the portion with the mounting flange on it. The secondary adjustable
portion of the tube may be discarded. The main section can be mounted into the cabinet per the instructions
below.
Screw-mount port tubes- The port can simply be set into place and carefully secured with the included #6-3/4"
screws. Be careful not to over-torque the screws, which may result in cracking of the plastic.
2. Install Binding Posts
The posts will need to be “knocked” into place with a hammer and secured from the inside of the cabinet. Start
by placing the cabinets face-down onto the work surface, being sure that the cabinet is firmly supported.
Remove the binding posts from their package, and unscrew all washers and nuts from the shaft. Next, remove
the main nut that is used to hold the speaker wire onto the terminals- this will prevent them from getting dam-
aged while the posts are being inserted.
Insert one of the post shafts into the hole and align it
making sure the wire through-hole is running vertically.
Gently tap into place until the shoulder is snug with the
rear of the cabinet. Excessive hammering is not
necessary and may cause damage to the finish of the
cabinet around posts. Proceed through the same
process with the second post.
Once the posts have been knocked into place, you will
need to secure them from the inside of the cabinet. A
lock washer followed by a nut need to be installed to
secure the posts to the cabinet. Next, install the
second lock nut, the solder tab, the second nut, and
then tighten into place.
Now that the posts are fully secured, we just need to
reinstall the colored knobs on the outside of the
cabinet. When looking from the rear of the cabinet
(terminals should be closer to the “bottom” of the
cabinet), the “red” terminal will go on the right side.
