❏
9. Install your rudder control linkage. We used a
Sullivan No. 520 Pull-Pull Cable Kit (not included)
and connected one end of the cable to the rudder,
but did not connect the other end to the servo at this
time. This way, the cables can be removed for
finishing and covering, then reinstalled and
connected after the model is completed. To ensure
that the cables do not contact any of the balsa
formers or cross braces, route the pull-pull cable
through two 36" inner pushrod tubes (White)
included with this kit. Cut notches in the stab saddles
to accommodate the cable guide tubes and glue
them to formers 7 and 8 and the saddles with epoxy.
❏
10. Route the throttle pushrod through the firewall
and connect it to the engine, but do not mount the
throttle servo until you have tested the fit of your cockpit
interior. An 11-3/4" inner pushrod tube, 36" outer
pushrod guide tube, .074" x 4" one-end threaded rod,
2-56 x 1" threaded rod, screw-lock connector and ball
link are supplied for hooking up the throttle (see the
detail on the fuse plan). On our prototype, we routed
the throttle pushrod under the fuel tank. If you are going
for an all-out, fully detailed cockpit interior, you may
mount your throttle servo on its side under one of the
front seats. Use two 1/2" x 1" x 3/4" basswood blocks
just the same as you did the aileron and flap servos. If
you are not installing a cockpit interior, mount your
throttle servo wherever most convenient.
❏
11.
Insert a 5/32" wheel collar into the nylon
steering arm. Trim the arm as shown on the top view
of the fuse plan. File a flat spot on the back of the
1/8" pre bent
tail gear wire
, so that the steering arm
will be parallel with the “axle” portion of the wire.
Temporarily mount the steering arm to the tail gear
with a 6-32 x 1/4" socket head cap screw to be
certain it is parallel. If necessary, adjust the position
or angle of the flat spot
(the better the job done here,
the less trouble you will have at the flying field).
❏
12. Temporarily mount the tail gear assembly to
the fuselage with three 6-32 x 1/2" Phillips head
screws. Secure the steering arm to the tail gear wire.
It will be necessary to drill an 1/8" hole through the
side of the fuse to access the screw on the steering
arm with your hex wrench. Be certain the steering
arm is locked onto the flat spot.
❏
13. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to
clean the .074" x 36" threaded one-end pushrod. Cut
the pushrod to the correct length for the
tail gear
steering pushrod
that connects the rudder servo to
the steering arm on the tail gear.
❏
14. Cut eight 3/8" long
bushings
from the leftover
guide tubes you used to guide the pull-pull cable for
the rudder. Slide the bushings evenly spaced, onto
the pushrod. If the bushings fit loosely, secure them
with a small drop of thin CA.
❏
15. Hook up the tail wheel steering the same way
you did the elevators with the pushrod you just made,
a 3/16" guide tube and four 1/8" plywood guide tube
holders. If you prefer to remove the tail gear
assembly when it’s time for covering, proceed to the
next step. Otherwise, remove the screw in the
steering arm and the two set screws on the collars,
apply a small drop of thread lock to the screws, then
reinstall and securely tighten. Be certain the screw in
the steering arm is securely fitted in the flat spot on
the tail gear wire.
❏
16. Secure the aft end of both elevator pushrod
guide tubes with leftover 1/8" balsa. Cut a slot in the
balsa to accommodate the tubes, then glue the balsa
pieces to the inside of the stab saddles. This area will
be concealed later with pushrod exit covers.
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