Top Flite Stinson Reliant, User Manual

Page: 52 / 60

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3. Using a trim iron set on low heat, seal the
covering to the model in the order shown in the photo
and described below.
Note: When 21st Century Fabric is heated, the
adhesive softens and the covering shrinks. For this
reason, 21st Century Fabric
cannot be applied using
an iron on high heat. It must be thoroughly bonded to
the wood with low heat (wrapping the covering around
corners such as trailing edges and the sides of ribs
helps), then tightened with high heat. While shrinking
the covering, never apply heat where it is attached to
the airframe. Otherwise, the adhesive will soften and
the covering will pull away. Where the fabric is under
much tension (such as around wing tips and other
curved surfaces near open structure), use a generous
amount of “overlap” to make certain the edges are
securely bonded to the structure. As much as 1/2" or
5/8" overlap is desirable in these areas.
A . Iron the covering to the corner of the bottom of
the fin and the stab TE.
B . Iron the covering to the TE, tip and LE of the fin.
C . Iron the covering to the stab fairing and the top
of the stab.
D . Iron the covering to the fin fillet.
E . Pull the covering tight, then iron it to the top
longeron and the top of former 8.
F . Be certain all edges of the covering are
securely bonded to the airframe, then use a
heat gun or an iron to tighten it.
G . Trim the excess covering with a sharp razor
blade or a hobby knife.
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4. Cover the rest of the model using the tips
mentioned previously.
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5. After you cover the wings, mount them to the
fuselage. Check the incidence at the tip of both
panels at rib 15. There should be 1 degree of
washout* at the tips. If necessary, correct by twisting
the wing panel in the correct direction and applying
heat to tighten the covering. Recheck the incidence
at the tips to be certain you have achieved the
correct washout.
*Washout is a “twist” intensionally built into the wing
where the tip is at a lower angle of attack than the root.
During stall situations this allows the tips to provide lift
longer than the rest of the wing and helps the wing
remain level so the model will not enter a spin.
Final Assembly
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1. Gather all the control surfaces and the 6-32 x
1-1/2" threaded rods. Use 30-minute epoxy to
permanently glue the threaded rods into the holes
you previously tapped in the basswood blocks.
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2. Permanently attach the control surfaces with
your hinges using the adhesive recommended by the
manufacturer of the hinges—most require 30-minute
epoxy.
Hint: Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to
hinge pins to keep epoxy from locking up the hinge.
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3. Assemble the wheel pants and wheels, then
join the landing gear and the landing gear fairings to
the fuse. Don’t forget to file flat spots on the axles for
the set screws and to apply a drop of oil to the axles.
A small drop of thread locking cement on the set
screws is also
highly recommended.
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4. Mount the tail gear fairing and install a 2" tail
wheel with two 1/8" wheel collars—don’t forget the
flat spot for the set screw on the wheel collar that
holds the wheel on and a drop of oil on the axle.
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5. Mount the engine, install the fuel tank, (if it’s not
installed already), and hook up all the connections
including the throttle pushrod, fuel lines, fuel filler,
exhaust system, etc.
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6. Mount the pushrod exit covers on the aft end
of the fuse.
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7. If you haven’t done so already, mount the
servos in the wing and fuse.
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8. Install the pull/pull cables for the rudder. The
connections should already be made for the elevator,
but now is the time to connect the other end of the
cables to the rudder servo. Follow the instructions
included with the pull/pull cable.
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9. Hook up the rest of the controls. Secure all
clevises with a silicone retainer and use a 4-40 jam
nut on all threaded steel clevises.
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10. Mount your battery pack and receiver. As
mentioned previously, upon checking the CG, be
prepared to relocate the battery pack.
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11. Install the cockpit interior, followed by the side
windows. We suggest using special “canopy glue” such
as RC/56 (JOZR5007) to glue in the side windows.
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12. Glue the door hinges to the door. Mount the
doors with the removable hinge pins and the door
latch mechanism.
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13. Study the photos on the box to decide where
to place the decals. Trim the decals close to the
edges and carefully apply them to your model. You
can
float them into position by dipping them into a
solution of dish soap and water (just a few drops to a
quart of water), then squeegeeing out the solution
with a piece of soft balsa or a credit card wrapped
with a tissue. Let the decals set for at least 12 hours
before running the engine.
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