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The purpose of making adjustments is to make the car go faster around the track, or to make it more controllable, or both if possible. A car
that's easier to drive should produce lower, more consistent lap times. It will also inspire more confidence in the driver, which is always
good when nerves start getting the best of you.
Before you start thinking about changing your car's setup, consider these two things: First, is the car in perfect working order? Be sure
that all of the suspension components operate freely without excessive play, and that the car isn't tweaked. Binding and worn out parts
will result in poor performance and inconsistent handling. Second, always consider tires before making other adjustments. Time spent
trying to get the vehicle to work with the wrong tires mounted will be wasted time. Without the right tires, even a great setup won’t be a
winning setup.
Bumpsteer
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bump out
bump out
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Ackermann
Effect
DR
OO
P M
EA
SU
RE
M
EN
T
AD
JU
ST
H
ER
E
Droop
Ride height is the distance from the bottom of the chassis to the running surface. Ride height should
only be checked and adjusted with your vehicle ready to run (i.e. with battery installed/body on). Ride
height is the first adjustment to be made and should be set with a ride height measurement tool. Mea-
surements should be taken from the flat parts of the chassis, front and rear. Be sure to measure the
front ride height at a point before the kick up in the chassis starts. To measure ride height, first make
sure the suspension is completely free, then simultaneously compress the front and rear all the way
down and let the vehicle settle. Take your measurement from that position. Use the shock spring
adjustment collars to raise or lower the ride height to your desired setting. 22 - 23mm front and rear is
a good starting point.
Think of bump steer as active toe when the suspen-
sion compresses or rebounds. To adjust bump steer
you have to change the angle of the steering link.
This is accomplished by adding or removing washers
under the ball stud on the steering spindles, or by
adding or removing riser plates under the spindle
arms. Anytime you change camber link locations,
front arm pills, front arm spacers, or Ackermann you
will need to check and possibly adjust your bump-
steer. It's best to start with zero bumpsteer or slight
bump out. Bump in should never be used.
Think of Ackermann as active toe
when the steering moves from left to
right. More Ackermann effect makes
more toe out at full turn and produces
more steering off-power. Less
Ackermann effect makes less toe out
at full turn and produces more
steering on-power. A good starting
point is 4 washers behind the ball stud
(2mm), and the D spindle arm.
Ride Height
MEASUREMENT
Camber
CAM
BE
R
Static camber affects the car’s side to side traction. More negative camber front and rear quick-
ens rotation in corners. Less negative camber will make the vehicle easier to drive but you may
give up some responsiveness (i.e. steering). To set your static camber have your vehicle at ride
height (see above) and adjust the camber links until desired angle is achieved. Please note that a
large adjustment of front camber will affect front toe and you may have to readjust the toe and
then re-check front camber again. A good starting measurement for camber is 2 degrees in the
front and 2 degrees in the rear.
Front toe is used to describe the angle in which the front wheels point when looking down at
them from the top of a vehicle. You will always use some amount of toe out. Toe-out will
affect how your vehicle enters and exits corners. More toe out will result in more off-power
steering and less on-power steering and less toe out will have the opposite results. To set your
front toe, have your vehicle at ride height (see above) and adjust the steering links until desired
angle is achieved. Please note that a large adjustment of front toe will affect front camber and
you may have to readjust the camber and then re-check front toe again. A good starting point
is approximately 1 degree of toe out.
Droop is the measured amount of down travel in the suspension. It is measured from the shock mounting
points while the vehicle is up on a stand allowing the arms to hang freely and is adjusted by turning the
droop screw located in the front/rear suspension arms. This screw limits the suspension travel by
providing a stopping point against the chassis. Left and right sides should always be equal, however the
front and rear of the vehicle can have different values. Droop affects all aspects of chassis
performance, including: braking, acceleration, jumping, traction and bump handling. A good
starting droop measurement is 87mm front and 107mm rear.
Front Toe
OUT____IN
IN____OUT
A
(16mm)
B
(17mm)
C
(18mm)
D
(19mm)
A
(16mm)
B
(17mm)
C
(18mm)
D
(19mm)
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Set Up Information
