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Camber Location:
The
Type R
has four different camber link locations on the front shock tower. In general, the most camber gain (total cam-
ber change through the total throw of the suspension) is achieved in hole #4. Moving upward or inward will decrease the amount of camber
gain. Running the camber tierod in the lower holes will increase both on and off-power steering, however the car may be a little inconsistent.
If the inner camber position is raised, the car will lose some steering but gain consistency. We have found that reducing the camber gain in
the front of the car best suits the balance of the
Type R
. By using a shorter link, front steering will increase, however stability and consistency
may decrease.
*Note: To obtain a shorter link you may have to trim the ball cup depending on the amount of Static Camber.
The
Type R
comes equipped with the “Jr” front camber link (upper arm and swivel), this link moves the outer camber link pivot point further out on the
caster block, giving the car more stability on high bite conditions. The upper arm swivel is reversible to have more (high position) or less
(low position) camber gain.
Static Camber:
This refers to the angle of the wheels/tires relative to the track surface (viewed from either the front or back). Negative
camber means that the top of the tire leans in toward the chassis. Positive camber means the top of the tire leans out, away from the chassis.
Camber can be precisely measured with after market camber gauges, sold at a local hobby shop. It can be measured (roughly) using any
square (to the ground) object by checking the gap between the square edge and the top of the tire. Testing has shown that 1 degree of negative
camber is best for most track conditions. Increasing negative camber in the front (in the range of 1-2 degrees) will increase steering on both
foam and rubber tires. Changing the static camber has a tremendous effect on the handling of the car especially with foam tires. This is, most
often, a very critical adjustment in tuning your car that can be made track-side!
Toe-In/Out:
This is the parallel relationship of the front tires to one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing the overall length
of the steering tierods. Toe-in (the front of the tires point inward, to a point in front of the front diff) will make the car react a little slower, but
have more steering from the middle of the turn, out. The opposite is true with toe-out (the front of the tires point outward, coming to a point
behind the front diff), the car will turn into the corner better but with a decrease in steering from the middle of the turn, out. Toe-in will help
the car to “track” better on long straights, where as toe-out has a tendency to make the car wander.
Bump-In/Out:
Bump-out (front of the front tires toe-outward under suspension compression) will result in more off-power steering. This
effect is obtained by adding washers under the steering spindle ball stud. Bump-In (front of the front tires toe-inward under suspension
compression) will result in less off-power steering and running too much bump-in can make the steering feel very inconsistent. This effect
is obtained by raising steering bellcranks. Testing has shown that running zero bump-steer (kit setup) in the
Type R
offers the best overall
performance.
Front Droop:
Droop is the amount of down-travel that the suspension has. It is adjusted with the outer-most set screw in the suspension arm,
from the top of the arm. Droop is measured with the supplied droop gauge and adjusted by removing the front tires and setting the chassis
on the droop gauge so that the gauge extends across the chassis from the center, out to the arm with the graduated notches to one side. Slide
the gauge inward using the set screw boss on the bottom of the spindle carrier as a reference. The set screw boss should just clear the 3mm
step on the droop gauge. Repeat this on the other side, making sure that both sides are the same. With standard 2.5” tall rubber tires you will
want to maintain between 3-5mm of droop. With foam tires the droop will depend on the size of the tire. Generally with a 57mm foam tire
you will want the droop gauge to be set between 2-4mm of droop. If a larger tire is used the ride height will need to be lowered and the droop
will have to be readjusted. The opposite is true if a smaller tire is used. More droop will give the car more steering entering the turn and react
slower. Less front droop will keep the front end fl atter giving more steering response but yield less steering through the turn.
Up-travel Limiters:
The up-travel of the shocks can be adjusted via the set screw in the sway bar mount/up-travel stop (over-hanging portion
of the arms). With the chassis pushed down onto a fl at surface (suspension compressed), pull up on the front or rear tires. This is the up-travel
of the car. More up-travel is recommended for bumpy surfaces or track layouts that use berm edging or track dots. This will allow the sus-
pension to work over those objects. Testing has shown that 3-5mm of tire up-travel for this type of track conditions is best. For smooth track
layouts that are high-bite, testing showed that limiting the up-travel helps the car react faster and improves corner speed.
Kickup/Anti-dive:
This is the angle of the inner front hinge pins in relation to the chassis. The amount of kickup/anti-dive is controlled
with shims under the pivot blocks that mount the inner hinge pins and suspension arms to the chassis. For kickup, the shims will be placed
under the pivot block in front of the arms. For anti-dive, the shims will be placed under the pivot blocks directly behind the front arms. Front
kickup generally makes the car easier to drive, especially on bumpy tracks, and will give more steering entering the turn with less steering
on the exit of the turn. Anti-dive will make the steering feel more aggressive initially, and give more on-power steering. Anti-dive will also
improve braking traction but will decrease the chassis ability to handle bumpy surfaces. Generally we use 0 degrees of kickup/anti-dive on
most track surfaces.
Caster:
This is the angle of the kingpin from vertical when viewed from the side of the car. The
Type R
comes equipped with 4-degree
spindle carriers, however this can be adjusted in 2 degree increments from 0 to 8 degrees. Total caster is determined by adding the amount of
kickup/anti-dive and the kingpin angle of the front spindle carriers. Increasing caster in the spindle carrier will provide more steering enter-
ing a turn but less on exit. Decreasing caster in the spindle carrier will cause the steering to react faster, decrease mid-corner steering and
increase on-power steering.
In-board Pin Angle:
The in-board angle of the front hinge pins is adjustable in 1 degree increments from 0 to +2 degrees (angled out). The
car comes with a 0 degree front pivot block. Running more inboard front toe-out (+1 or +2 degrees) will provide a more responsive feel in
the steering with less overall steering. Running less in-board toe (0 degree) will result in more stability with more overall steering.
Front Arm Length:
The
Type R
has the unique ability to run optional front arm lengths. The car comes with the long front arm setting as the
SETUP GUIDE
SETUP GUIDE
