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Ride Height
: This is the height of the chassis in relation to
the surface. It is an adjustment that affects the way your 1/10
HIGHroller turns and goes through bumps. To check the ride
height, drop one end (front or rear) of the 1/10 HIGHroller
from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the 1/10
HIGHroller settles into a position, check the height of that end
of the 1/10 HIGHroller in relationship to the surface. To raise the
ride height, lower the shock collar on the shock evenly on the
end (front or rear) of the 1/10 HIGHroller that you are working
on. To lower the ride height, raise the shock collar. Both left and
right nuts should be adjusted evenly.
Every driver likes a little different feel so you should try small
ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you like. This should
be one of the last adjustments after everything else has been
dialed in (tuned). Do not use ride height adjustment as a
substitute for a change in spring rate.
Tuning the Rear End of the 1/10 HIGHroller
Shock Location
: Moving the shocks in on the arm will result in
more forward traction and let the 1/10 HIGHroller drive more
square off the turn.
Static Camber
: Having the same definition as for the front end
and measured in the same fashion, rear camber can also be a
critical tuning feature. Testing has shown that running a small
amount of negative camber (.5-1 degree) is best. Increasing
negative rear camber (in the range of 1.5-3 degrees) will
increase stability and traction in corners, but decrease high
speed stability. Decreasing rear camber (in the range of 0-1.5
degrees) will decrease stability and traction in corners, but will
increase high-speed stability.
Inboard Camber Location
: The 1/10 HIGHroller has multiple
rear camber locations. Using a longer camber link will improve
stability and traction (grip). Using a shorter camber link will
increase steering while decreasing rear grip. Running the
camber link in the inside position on the shock tower will give
your 1/10 HIGHroller more steering entering the turn as it will
let the 1/10 HIGHroller set over the rear tire and give you more
forward traction exiting the turn. As you move the camber link
towards the outside of the 1/10 HIGHroller, you will gain less
initial steering, however, you will gain more steering as the
1/10 HIGHroller exits the turn. The 1/10 HIGHroller now has the
capabilities of a lower row of holes in the rear shock tower for
the inner camber link location. The lower hole gives the 1/10
HIGHroller more camber gain (more angle relative to arm =
more camber gain). This can be helpful when the surface gets
bumpy and rutted to help the rear end of the 1/10 HIGHroller
go through the bumps easier due to the increased camber gain
of the tires.
Outboard Camber Location
: Running the camber link in the
inside position on the hub will generate more rotation entering
a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link
in the furthest outer position on the hub will generate more
stability entering a turn and increase steering on exit.
Toe-In
: The stock toe-in is 3 degrees of inboard per side and 0
degrees in the hub.
Anti/Pro-Squat
: Increasing anti-squat is generated by raising
the front of the pivot block, relative to the rear of the pivot.
This will increase initial steering and forward traction. You can
increase anti-squat in 1 degree increments by using two .030
washers between the front of the pivot plate and pivot block.
Pro-squat is generated by raising the rear of the pivot relative to
the front. This will decrease forward traction and initial steering,
but provide more on-power steering on high-traction surfaces.
Pro-squat will also help the 1/10 HIGHroller from pulling
wheelies on high-bite surfaces.
Tuning the Chassis of the 1/10 HIGHroller
Slipper Adjustment:
After fully tightening the adjustment
nut (so the coils of the spring just touch) loosen the slipper
adjustment nut 2 1/2 turns. This will be a good starting point for
your slipper settings.
