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9

MOUNTING THE STRONGHOLD ON YOUR LATHE.

It is important that your chuck is put on your lathe properly. Proceed as fol-

lows:

After mounting  the adaptor to the chuck, carefully screw the assembly onto

your lathe spindle. It should go on smoothly without excessive play or bind-

ing. Screw it all the way on until the adaptor face contacts the spindle shoul-

der. Next, lock your spindle, and unscrew the chuck just slightly so you can

give it a firm swift spin, consequently snapping the chuck home.

Alternatively, a piece of wood can be tightened in the top jaws crosswise,

and with the palm of your hand, bump the chuck home. 

To remove, reverse the above procedure.

WARNING:  

Do not put a steel bar in the holes of the chuck body, as this may cause dam-

age to the holes and/or the scroll. 

chuck body, you may not be able to remove the screws from the adaptor. Do

not forcibly remove, but take the following action:  first turn the screws in

further; then, using a file or grinder, remove the first squashed thread. You

will now be able to remove the screws without damaging the taperlock adap-

tor. 

8

R

EMOVING THE ADAPTOR

1.  Remove the two tightening screws and thread them into the two tapped

holes of the adaptor. They now become jack screws.

2.  Carefully tighten alternately until the adaptor pops loose from the taper. 

CAUTION:  If a lot of force is required to remove the adaptor, the screws

may flatten and compress the first thread. After the adaptor is out of the

M

OUNTING THE ADAPTOR:  --(your adaptor may already be mounted)--

1.  Wipe the inside of the taper of the chuck body as well as the outside of

the adaptor to be sure all grit and dirt is removed.
2.  Slide the adaptor into the chuck body with the counter-bored holes of the
adaptor lined up with the threaded holes of the chuck body.

3.  Thread in the M5 x 20 hex socket screws and with the 4mm T-handle hex

key and tighten them alternately. Alternate tightening ensures the the adaptor

is pulled into the taper straight.

Mounting and Removing the Adaptor. 

Note that there are four holes in the adaptor. Two of these holes are counter-
bored and are not threaded. These are used to pull the adaptor into the
tapered chuck body (and hold it there). The other two holes are not counter-
bored, but are threaded. These are used as jack screws if the adaptor needs to
be removed. 

SECTION 2 - GETTING STARTED

Summary of Contents for 2257068

Page 1: ...4 JAW KEY OPERATED SAFETY SCROLL CHUCK THE ULTIMATE CHOICE STRONGHOLD ACCESSORIES There are several Jaws Sets which can be quickly and easi ly inter changed on the Stronghold Chuck Some of these are listed below 1 Jaws Spigot Jaws Part Number 2104 3 Jaws Part Number 2106 Jumbo Jaws Part Number 2136 Flat Jaws Part Number 2756 Dovetail Jaws Part Number 2948 ...

Page 2: ... Removing the Adaptor Mounting the STRONGHOLD on your lathe spindle Section 3 Maintenance Removing Top Jaws Removing Base Jaws Reassembling your STRONGHOLD This section explains the proper terms for the component parts which make up your new STRONGHOLD chuck These terms will be referred to throughout this instruction manual It is necessary that you know the proper names for the parts of your chuck...

Page 3: ...at surface thread on the opposite side which moves the base jaws in and out in unison TAPERLOCK ADAPTOR Made with various threaded sizes so it can be made to fit any lathe spindle If you change lathes all you need to do is buy a new adap tor not a whole new chuck The taperlock design eliminates the pos sibility of the adaptor loosening or separating from the chuck body in normal use or when revers...

Page 4: ...e length of the head of the screw which prevents the screw from spinning WHY YOU HAVE BOUGHT A SUPERIOR CHUCK BY BUYING THE STRONGHOLD Base jaws are made from carbon steel Precision grinding on the sides pro vides for the exact and controlled clearances which are required for wood turning chucks Base jaws are case hardened which makes them longer lasting stronger and non seizing in use Scroll is p...

Page 5: ...erlock adap tor 8 REMOVING THE ADAPTOR 1 Remove the two tightening screws and thread them into the two tapped holes of the adaptor They now become jack screws 2 Carefully tighten alternately until the adaptor pops loose from the taper CAUTION If a lot of force is required to remove the adaptor the screws may flatten and compress the first thread After the adaptor is out of the MOUNTING THE ADAPTOR...

Page 6: ...HOLD 1 Remove Top Jaws You may want to remove the Top Jaws either for cleaning purposes or to exchange them for an optional set of jaws for a pro ject which requires Jaws with a different capacity To remove the Top Jaws use the 4mm T Handle hex key and unscrew the eight screws counterclock wise The jaws are pulled in on a taper so after the screws are out it is usu ally necessary to give them a ta...

Page 7: ...Bottom view of Top Jaw with pin Replacing Top Jaws 5 Re Mount the Adaptor refer to page 8 12 d Rotate the scroll until you can see the thread start at location 2 e Back the scroll up and slide the No 2 base jaw into the slot Push on the jaw and rotate the scroll as you did for the No 1 base jaw f Repeat these steps for the No 3 and No 4 base jaws g Rotate the scroll all the way in to check that al...

Page 8: ...ften switch from chuck work to working between centres consider a ONEWAY chuck spur It mounts directly into your chuck which eliminates having to remove and re install your chuck from your spindle Chuck Spurs are manufactured in two sizes 1 2 and 1 SECTION 4 STRONGHOLD ACCESSORIES Right out of the box the STRONGHOLD will be ready to be used for most turning applications The accessories which ONEWA...

Page 9: ...crew from the chuck You can then grip the glue block with the Top Jaws and hollow the inside of the bowl Using a glue block is espe 16 BOWLS AND PLATTERS There are many ways to hold your work piece for turning it into a bowl or platter Here are three good methods METHOD ONE Mount the Jumbo Screw in your chuck The base jaws should sit in the grooves or flats which have been milled along the length ...

Page 10: ...all components simply mount a suitable piece of stock square or preferably round Due to the unique jaw shape good holding will be achieved in either case For tops turn the point which will be in contact with the surface when spinning You can then work towards the chuck turning the spindle of the top and part off 18 cially appropriate when you don t want a foot or tenon and don t have a means to tu...

Page 11: ...s check and re tighten after a catch or when some time elapses between uses to take care of warp and or shrinkage With care you may turn fairly long lengths unsupported but for safety whenever possible use a center for sup port and to prevent accidents SAFETY TIPS continued 7 Never wrap any strip sand paper or clothing around your hands or fingers when sanding or turning Do not wear gloves when tu...

Page 12: ...ith this product for any reason please return it to us within two years of purchase Please mail the warranty card to us immediately upon purchase OUR PROMISE TO YOU No false claims Only high quality goods sold Satisfaction guaranteed or your money back If you have any problems comments or suggestions please write us at ONEWAY MANUFACTURING 241 Monteith Ave Stratford ON N5A 2P6 CANADA or call TOLL ...

Page 13: ... and dovetail jaws will leave minimal marks but they will leave some marks and have the dis advantage of only holding well over an extreme ly limited range ONEWAY top jaws are designed to grip well over their entire range As for the marks made by the jaws we believe that the marks from our jaws are much easier to remove than the marks made by a bowl fly ing out of a chuck and hitting the floor Foo...

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