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130 mm

Notes on trimming and running characteristics

If a racing boat is to attain as high a speed as possible, combined with safe handling on the water, it is essential to align 
the power system correctly and set the appropriate Centre of Gravity. Naturally this applies to the “Spitfire”.

Experts refer to these inter-related adjustments as the boat's “trim”. There are two levels of these settings: the “base trim”, 
which represents an efficient starting point, and the “situation trim”; the latter will vary depending on water and wind 
conditions, and may differ more or less significantly from the “base trim”. It can also take into account the driver's personal 
preference and habits.

Trim

Before adjusting any trim settings it is advisable to place the model on a level surface (table top, workbench, bench seat at 
the lakeside), so that you can view it easily from the side at eye-level.

Adjust the height of the outboard motor so that the centre of the propeller shaft is exactly in line with the hull bottom at the 
model's stern. The angle of inclination of the outboard motor, which directly affects the thrust angle, should initially be set 
to neutral, i.e. the outboard motor is tilted neither forward nor back.

The next step is to set the Centre of Gravity: install all the components in the boat so that it is ready to run, i.e. including 
the batteries and - if you wish - the dummy driver.
For the boat's “base trim” the Centre of Gravity should be exactly 130 mm forward of the transom. Measure this distance 
using a tape measure or ruler, and mark this point on the side of the hull, e.g. with a small piece of adhesive tape or a 
pencil line. If you now place the bottom of the hull on a square wooden strip at the marked position, the hull should remain 
exactly horizontal when viewed from the side, i.e. it should not tip forward or back. If the hull inclines forward or back, 
adjust the position of the movable internal components in the hull until the Centre of Gravity is correct.

Example: bow tips down = move batteries and / or dummy driver further aft in the model.
Bow rises = move batteries and / or dummy driver further forward in the model.
If it is not possible to set the CG correctly by re-positioning the internal components, you must 
add lead ballast to the hull. Add ballast in small increments, and be sure to secure it carefully 
using glue or double-sided adhesive tape.
With this CG position your “Spitfire” is set up to run efficiently when the water is calm and 
there is little wind. The boat “planes” on the last third of the hull, with the bow and midship 
sections out of the water. This gives high speed combined with good steering response and 
reliable running characteristics.

If the wind is a little stronger and / or the water is slightly choppy, you will need to push the 
bow down onto the water to avoid the boat jumping (pitching): this is achieved by tilting the 
outboard motor slightly back, as shown in the drawing. Viewed from the side, the propeller 
shaft is now inclined slightly down at the rear, and the revised thrust line presses the bow 
down onto the water.

If you want to extract even more speed from the model in calm conditions, then you can try 
tilting the outboard motor forward slightly. Viewed from the side, the propeller shaft is now 
inclined slightly up at the rear. This raises the bow and midship section further out of the 
water, and the boat 'planes' on just the last few centimetres of the hull. The effect is to 
increase the boat's speed, but at the expense of slightly more difficult handling and steering 
characteristics. In this guise the boat demands experienced hands on the transmitter.

Summary of Contents for Aeronaut

Page 1: ...mponents before gluing followed by rubbing down with 320 grit abrasive paper The whole of the boat inside and out must be given several coats of clear waterproof boat lacquer before it is placed in th...

Page 2: ...0 to the bottom panel 9 flush with frame 3 and the step in the hull sides 8 Glue the reinforcements 5 1 5 2 to both sides of the keel 5 Glue the forward bottom panel 11 to frame 10 aligning it with th...

Page 3: ...13 and 14 Glue the reinforcements 24 to the keel 5 16 16 17 Glue the cockpit sides 16 and the cockpit front panel 17 in place 12 13 14 14 13 12 15 24 5 7 8 9 Apply several coats of sanding sealer or...

Page 4: ...l sides 8 as shown The deck panels 25 are slightly oversize sand them back flush with the rubbing strakes when the glue has set hard 44 44 25 11 12 13 The right and left aft deck panels 25 can now be...

Page 5: ...y Parts 21 and 33 can now be glued together Carefully slide the whole assembly into position in the hull and leave it there until the glue has set hard 21 22 32 33 Assemble the pulley brackets from pa...

Page 6: ...slots in the cockpit sides 16 and attach a clothes peg to each end to keep them in place Fit a locknut 48 on each of the bottle screws 47 unscrew the assemblies as far as possible and screw them to th...

Page 7: ...therwise the heat could soften the adhesive The fabric shrinks as follows 1 at 110 C 2 at 120 C 3 at 130 C 4 at 140 C 5 at 150 C At 180 C it is also possible to stretch the fabric round curves The mel...

Page 8: ...ou will find a detailed description of setting up the boat in the Appendix entitled Trimming Assemble the boatstand from parts 55 56 and glue the joints note that the small projecting tabs of parts 56...

Page 9: ...wood 2 1 5 mm 3 26 Steering wheel core Plywood 1 2 mm 2 27 Steering wheel rim Plywood 2 1 mm 5 28 Return pulley disc Plywood 2 1 mm 5 29 Return pulley core Plywood 2 2 mm 2 30 Return pulley centre Ply...

Page 10: ...arked position the hull should remain exactly horizontal when viewed from the side i e it should not tip forward or back If the hull inclines forward or back adjust the position of the movable interna...

Page 11: ...f this should happen reduce speed until stability is restored If you fit out your Spitfire with a dummy driver you must secure the figure securely so that there is no possibility of movement when runn...

Page 12: ......

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