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5.

 

To install the tanks into the air tank assembly stand the pipework should be trimmed from the top leaving the ‘L’ shaped 

projects from the ends of the tank. If you break or trim too much off, drill 0.3mm holes into the end caps of the tanks and 
insert ‘L’ shaped 0.3mm brass wire to act as the pipes once the complete assembly has been made 

6.

 

Push a tank onto (P33) from each side evenly whilst paying attention to the spacing so that it matches the air tank 

assembly stand pre-cut curves 

7.

 

Glue a 4mm piece of 0.3mm brass wire between the two air tank end pipes. See prototype photo below 

8.

 

Glue the air tanks and spacer to the air tank assembly so that the ‘L’ shaped pipes point to (P31) 

9.

 

Glue the entire assembly between the two bogies so that it spaced evenly 

 

Assembled air tanks and air tank cradle assemblies 

Air tank with added pipework 

 

Completed air tanks and cradle 

Air tanks and cradle in position 

 
Final assembly: 

1.

 

Using the clear styrene fit the cab windows 

2.

 

Lightly file the sides of the original Life Like cab weight (P35) to allow it to fit inside the Y class cab 

3.

 

Glue the cab roof (P7) into place ensuring the 2 lift rings face towards the cab end 

4.

 

2mm in from each end of the chassis is a hole that a Microtrains 1015 coupler is screwed to.  Use a 0.8mm drill bit to 
enlarge the hole if need be.  It may take a bit of twisting and turning to get the coupler into position or you can file a very 
small amount on each side and the bottom of the coupler pocket to allow the unit to slide in from the front. 

 

Painting: 
 
The whole etch needs to be cleaned before priming and final colour application.  All excess solder should be minimised.  There are 
several ways of cleaning brass but to bathe the brass in warmed Vinegar for 20 minutes is recommended, then wash with fresh 
water and then air dry before applying an etch primer.  Some people skip the priming stage if they are using water-based acrylics. 
 
Recommended colours - Steam Era diesel blue:  Cab roof, loco, exhaust stack depending on the era.  Black: Underframe.  
Silver: exhaust stack depending on the era.  Red: Horns trumpet end depending on the era.  Weathering: is up to the builder to 
decide upon. 
 
Decals: 
 
The chevrons and stripes are the highest quality decals on the market and have been especially screen printed for Spirit Design to 
match Steam Era Diesel Yellow.  Also, they feature a unique border fractionally wider than the artwork work.  This means you can 
cut away from the decal and when soaking off, only the artwork with the small clear border will come away.  No more having to trim 
as close as possible as the special mask does this for you. 
 
The paper number plates are best trimmed as close as possible to their respective white edges and applied to the loco using 
Microscale clear water-based topcoats as this acts as a glue as well as allowing you to put a water-based topcoat over an existing 
enamel or water-based VR Royal Blue. 

Summary of Contents for SDLocoY1

Page 1: ...ssor clamps weights soldering aids Blu Tak 0 3mm drill bit pin vice tweezers Other items decoder wire 2B pencil paint couplers LifeLike SW9 1200 loco for motor bogies weights and phosphorous bronze pickups etc Assembly Instructions Some steps require close attention and they are highlighted in bold and italics Parts referred to in the text are marked P1 P2 etc All brass parts and their holding tab...

Page 2: ...s for the remaining 2 cab handrails into the holes provided If you need to open the holes up use a 0 3mm or no79 80 drill to clear away excess solder 7 Glue a loco headlight P5 into the square above the front door window Cab roof Note The large fold lines are on the underside of the cab roof 1 Insert 2 lift rings P23 into the holes provided on top of the roof P7 and solder glue from underneath Enl...

Page 3: ...ong nose pliers 10 Using your hands fold up the sides of the long hood Don t worry about the section near the cab not matching the profile as yet 11 Bend the rear long hood nose up to meet the sides of the long hood and pay attention so that the bottom edge meets the side s bottom edges as well This may take a few pushes and tweaks with the pliers to achieve this Once satisfied solder one edge bot...

Page 4: ... See photo below 3 Fit a plywood step P15 on the floor of the walkway behind the rear cab door 4 Fit a plywood step P15 on the floor of the walkway in front of the cab front door 5 Glue lift rings P23 into the 3 holes provided on the long end roof and shown below in the diagram 6 Glue the long hood rear wall light P5 onto the square provided 7 In the first hole P14 behind the cab bend a small piec...

Page 5: ...e attached to the body 3 Remove the cab shell after unplugging the centre handrails from the cab The cab weight will be used later 4 Pushing down on the exposed mechanism whilst holding the walkway gradually slide the mechanism out of the plastic shell being careful not to damage the phosphor bronze pickups LifeLike mechanism with the shell removed 5 Remove the long hood from the walkway and dispo...

Page 6: ...the cab end of the motor cut out hole paying very careful attention so that it sits square and vertical with the chassis floor The scribed line points away from the motor and to the headstock end 5 Repeat the same procedure for the wide motor mounting fork P27 that is for the long hood again making sure that the scribed line points away from the motor and to the other headstock end 6 Run beads of ...

Page 7: ...ng to the top Push the motor down into the cradle until snaps into the forks paying attention so that the decoder wires sit in the rear slots provided in the chassis 7 Solder the 18mm decoder wire to the long phosphor bronze tab 8 Solder the 12mm decoder wire to the long phosphor bronze tab 9 Make sure the pickups are at about 30 degrees 10 Glue P36 coupler spacers at each end of the chassis so th...

Page 8: ...urning to get the coupler into position or you can file a very small amount on each side and the bottom of the coupler pocket to allow the unit to slide in from the front Painting The whole etch needs to be cleaned before priming and final colour application All excess solder should be minimised There are several ways of cleaning brass but to bathe the brass in warmed Vinegar for 20 minutes is rec...

Page 9: ...at Seymour 1988 Chris Pearce Y134 Courtesy of Peter Vincent Y 122 Dynon 1980 s Note the fuel gauge compared to Y173 below Chris Pearce Long hood end of Y112 note the missing VR in the chevron Photo courtesy of Mark Bau Air tank arrangement courtesy of Peter ...

Page 10: ...uel tank pipe cab end Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Fuel tank top side view Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Fireman s side Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Driver s side Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Y139 doing what it does best Photo courtesy of Geoff Winkler ...

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