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4.

 

Fit the fuel gauges (P10, P11) etches into the holes provided just behind the cab.  Use prototype photos depending on 
which class number you have chosen as they vary between the earlier series and the later ones.  There are 2 spares 
provided.  If building a Y class within the range of Y101-Y125 swap the positions of the gauges shown in the photo below so 
that the battery box will fit on the walkway 

5.

 

Join the 2 exhaust stack base plates together (P12) so the holes align and fit the long hood roof so the large hole faces 
towards the rear of the long hood inside the etched lines 

6.

 

Join the roof water tank plates (long end) together (P13) and fit them onto the space provided at the long end making 
sure that the 3 holes are closest to the end of the long hood 

7.

 

Join the roof fuel tank top plates (cab end) together (P14) and fit them onto the area provide making sure that the two 
holes with the larger spacing between them are towards the cab end 

8.

 

Turn the etch over onto some foam/cloth for protection and clean the underside of any solder/dags 

 

9.

 

With a rat tail file clean some of the solder out of the rear nose fold line done in step 1 and bend the long hood (P8) rear 
end nose section into a similar shape of the cab front utilising the fold lines provided in the back of the etch using long nose 
pliers 

10.

 

Using your hands, fold up the sides of the long hood.  Don’t worry about the section near the cab not matching the profile 
as yet 

11.

 

Bend the rear long hood nose up to meet the sides of the long hood and pay attention so that the bottom edge 
meets the side’s bottom edges as well.

  This may take a few pushes and tweaks with the pliers to achieve this.  Once 

satisfied, solder one edge bottom edge to the rear edge wall’s bottom edge.  If happy with the fit, continue with the other 
side of the end rear wall.  

Note the vertical edges of the nose are on the outside of the long hood

 

12.

 

Using ‘Flat jaw’ pliers bend the section of the long end to match the roof shape.  Using ‘long nose’ pliers bend the 3-panel 
line section (see the black line below) in line with the long end roof profile.  Use pliers to bend the last section to match the 
rest of the profile.  See note below in red.  When happy solder the tapered sections first followed by the small panel line 
section and finally the last remaining section.  Make sure the long hood nose is in line with the rest of the unit and if not 
touch up with a file to make a straight and flat surface. 

Be careful not to fill the roof radiator grille with solder

 

 

Note the gap here.  Fill this with solder – don’t force it down and solder, as this will cause a slope in

 the long 

end.  See photo below of completed joint.  Use body filler if you are not confident of filling it with solder 

 

Fuel sight 

glasses as for 
Y126 – 175.  

 
Note - Swap 
the positions 

for Y101-125 

Summary of Contents for SDLocoY1

Page 1: ...ssor clamps weights soldering aids Blu Tak 0 3mm drill bit pin vice tweezers Other items decoder wire 2B pencil paint couplers LifeLike SW9 1200 loco for motor bogies weights and phosphorous bronze pickups etc Assembly Instructions Some steps require close attention and they are highlighted in bold and italics Parts referred to in the text are marked P1 P2 etc All brass parts and their holding tab...

Page 2: ...s for the remaining 2 cab handrails into the holes provided If you need to open the holes up use a 0 3mm or no79 80 drill to clear away excess solder 7 Glue a loco headlight P5 into the square above the front door window Cab roof Note The large fold lines are on the underside of the cab roof 1 Insert 2 lift rings P23 into the holes provided on top of the roof P7 and solder glue from underneath Enl...

Page 3: ...ong nose pliers 10 Using your hands fold up the sides of the long hood Don t worry about the section near the cab not matching the profile as yet 11 Bend the rear long hood nose up to meet the sides of the long hood and pay attention so that the bottom edge meets the side s bottom edges as well This may take a few pushes and tweaks with the pliers to achieve this Once satisfied solder one edge bot...

Page 4: ... See photo below 3 Fit a plywood step P15 on the floor of the walkway behind the rear cab door 4 Fit a plywood step P15 on the floor of the walkway in front of the cab front door 5 Glue lift rings P23 into the 3 holes provided on the long end roof and shown below in the diagram 6 Glue the long hood rear wall light P5 onto the square provided 7 In the first hole P14 behind the cab bend a small piec...

Page 5: ...e attached to the body 3 Remove the cab shell after unplugging the centre handrails from the cab The cab weight will be used later 4 Pushing down on the exposed mechanism whilst holding the walkway gradually slide the mechanism out of the plastic shell being careful not to damage the phosphor bronze pickups LifeLike mechanism with the shell removed 5 Remove the long hood from the walkway and dispo...

Page 6: ...the cab end of the motor cut out hole paying very careful attention so that it sits square and vertical with the chassis floor The scribed line points away from the motor and to the headstock end 5 Repeat the same procedure for the wide motor mounting fork P27 that is for the long hood again making sure that the scribed line points away from the motor and to the other headstock end 6 Run beads of ...

Page 7: ...ng to the top Push the motor down into the cradle until snaps into the forks paying attention so that the decoder wires sit in the rear slots provided in the chassis 7 Solder the 18mm decoder wire to the long phosphor bronze tab 8 Solder the 12mm decoder wire to the long phosphor bronze tab 9 Make sure the pickups are at about 30 degrees 10 Glue P36 coupler spacers at each end of the chassis so th...

Page 8: ...urning to get the coupler into position or you can file a very small amount on each side and the bottom of the coupler pocket to allow the unit to slide in from the front Painting The whole etch needs to be cleaned before priming and final colour application All excess solder should be minimised There are several ways of cleaning brass but to bathe the brass in warmed Vinegar for 20 minutes is rec...

Page 9: ...at Seymour 1988 Chris Pearce Y134 Courtesy of Peter Vincent Y 122 Dynon 1980 s Note the fuel gauge compared to Y173 below Chris Pearce Long hood end of Y112 note the missing VR in the chevron Photo courtesy of Mark Bau Air tank arrangement courtesy of Peter ...

Page 10: ...uel tank pipe cab end Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Fuel tank top side view Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Fireman s side Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Driver s side Photo courtesy Dave Crowhurst Y139 doing what it does best Photo courtesy of Geoff Winkler ...

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