12
COWLING INSTALLATION
For this section you will need:
(1) Fuselage
(1) Fiberglass Cowling
(4) M3 x 10mm Screws
❑
35) Mount the cowling on the fuselage with the four M3 x 10mm
Screws provided. Notice that the holes for the four cowl mounting
screws are already pre-drilled in the cowling - two on each side.
a) First test fit the cowling in place on the fuselage. As you
pass it over the motor, make sure all the wires are out of the way.
Carefully adjust the exact position of the cowling. Make sure you
have adequate clearance between the front of the cowl and the
back of the propeller, and that the prop shaft is centered in the
hole. Use a low tack tape to hold the cowling securely in place
for the next step.
b) Use a 5/64" or #45 bit to drill a pilot hole for the top left cowl
mounting screw. Center the drill in the hole in the cowling and
drill into the fuselage side. Install an M3 x 10mm screw in the pilot
hole - do not over-tighten the screw.
c) Recheck the position of the cowling and make any adjust-
ments needed to get it back in perfect position, securing the tape
to hold it in place.
d) Now drill another pilot hole for the upper screw on the other
side of the cowling. Install the screw.
e) Repeat this process to install the two bottom cowl mounting
screws. Remove all the tape.
❑
36) COOLING IS IMPORTANT!
With a fully cowled motor, it is very important to make sure your
power system is getting proper cooling. Air flowing into the front
of the cowling must have a place to exit the cowl. In fact it’s best
to have more air exit area than inlet area to create a positive air
flow through the cowling - an actual suction effect - drawing the
heated air out of the cowling so that more cool air can come in.
This positive air flow keeps your motor running cool. We recom-
mend that you make a simple but scale-like opening at the bottom
rear edge of the cowling as shown, to provide additional air exit
area.
Note: A Dremel® Tool, or similar powered rotary hand-tool, with
an assortment of sanding bits is without a doubt the best tool to
use for making cutout in the fiberglass cowling. However, if you
do not have access to such a power tool, you can cut the opening
with a drill, a hobby knife, and a sanding block - by first drilling a
series of almost touching holes inside the pattern lines (1/8” dia.
works well); then using the knife to cut through the connecting ma-
terial between each hole; and finally finishing the edges of the
opening with the file or a sanding block.
Optional: In addition to making the new opening at the bottom of
the cowling, you may decide after test flying that your ESC or bat-
tery pack could use some additional cooling. We have not yet
found that to be necessary with our prototype T-Clips, but it could
happen in some cases with different motors, props, etc. If you
want more airflow over the ESC and battery, the best option is to
make a single air exit hole in the bottom of the fuselage, back near
the tail. It does not have to be very big. A small oblong slot, or a
1/2” dia. hole can do a lot of good for fuselage cooling.
❑
37) Mount a suitable propeller on your motor. Be sure to bal-
ance the prop before installation.
CONGRATULATIONS!
Your T-CLIPS EP is completely assembled. However, it is NOT
ready for flight! There are a few very critical pre-flight tasks we
must perform before flying. These are extremely important and
should be approached with patience and care.
BALANCE
Balancing your airplane may be the single most important step in
preparing it for flight. All airplanes, model or full-size, must be ac-
curately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplane that is
not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely crash.
NOT ALL T-CLIPS WILL BALANCE THE SAME
It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automat-
ically have the correct balance point. Not everyone uses the same
motor or radio gear - and all those items can vary in weight! Even
propellers of the same size can vary as much as a 3/4 oz. be-
tween different brands. That’s why every model must be balanced
before flying. Don’t feel that whatever the balance point your
model came out at is “good enough”. Check carefully and make
whatever adjustments are required. Trying to fly an out of balance
model is dangerous!
Preliminary: All the parts and components that will be in the air-
plane in flight must be installed in their correct positions. This in-
cludes all the radio gear, the propeller, battery pack, etc. Every
piece of essential equipment must be installed, ready for flight.
ACCEPTABLE BALANCE RANGE FOR T-CLIPS
is from
2-3/4" to 3-1/2"
AFT OF THE LEADING EDGE OF THE WING
The following table lists several acceptable measurements and
the equivalent percent of MAC (Mean Aerodynamic Chord).
DISTANCE
% MAC
2.75" = 26%
2.98" = 28%
3.19" = 30%
3.50" = 33%
A balance point approximately 3” aft of the leading edge (which is
at the main wing spar) is ideal for initial test flights. After test flying
you can adjust the balance point to fit your flying style.
PRE-FLIGHT