c) Run the ESC's servo chord back to the receiver and plug it
in. Use a few pieces of tape can hold the chord against the inside
wall of the fuselage and out of the way of the slide-in battery tray.
d) Connect the ESC's motor wires to the motor. Operate the
motor and check the direction of rotation. Always do this without
a propeller attached! If you need to reverse the rotation, refer to
the instructions that came with the motor and ESC.
SAFETY ISSUE:
We strongly recommend the use of an “arming
switch” for your motor installation. With an arming switch you can
install your battery pack in the airplane and hook up the wires
without danger of the motor starting. The arming switch keeps
the electricity away from the motor until you “arm” it when you are
ready to takeoff. The most common arming switches are a simple
external plug that puts a break in the positive battery lead to the
motor, such as the Maxx Products Arming Switch shown below.
There are also arming switches built into some of the advanced
ESCs now on the market.
❑
33) The T-CLIPS plywood Battery Tray slides into tracks that are
built into the fuselage. Inspect these parts to familiarize yourself
with how the tray system works. In addition to the two tracks on
each side of the fuselage, notice that there is a small wood tab
sticking up at the top of the slide.
This tab will lock into the notch at the top end of the battery tray,
once the tray is slid all the way down in the tracks. Due to the tight
tolerances, the Battery Tray may require a little bit of hand fitting.
Trial fit the battery tray into the track in the fuselage. The idea is
for the battery tray to slide down the tracks while it is sliding over
the top of the tab, which is putting up pressure on the tray. Once
the tray is all the way down the slide, the tab should snap into the
matching notch near the top end of the tray.
Most likely the battery tray will be hard to slide in the first time. If
it seems extremely tight and almost impossible to slide the battery
tray in, take a sanding block and sand a few thousands of an inch
off the top surface of the locking tab. Then try sliding the tray in
again. Don't sand off very much off of the tab at a time. Work on
it slowly, until you can slide the tray in place without having to use
excessive force. The tab is intended to push up on the bottom of
the tray until it snaps into the notch, once the tray is all the way in.
If you can slide the battery tray in almost all the way, but it doesn’t
want to go the last fraction of an inch, most likely the bottom edge
of the tray is hanging up where it is starting to enter the bottom
track. Use a sanding block to bevel and round the bottom edge
of the tray slightly, to allow it to slip into the bottom track.
❑
34) A 2” wide x 6” long piece of hook-and-loop tape (commonly
called Velcro®) is supplied for use on the battery tray. The “hook”
side has double-coated foam tape installed on it. Peel the protec-
tive paper off the foam tape, and then stick it in place on the ply-
wood Battery Tray. Make sure the tape does not extend past the
side boards at the bottom end of the battery tray.
Put a strip of the mating “loop” tape (the fuzzy side) on the bottom
of each of your battery packs. Make sure it is large enough to
keep the battery pack in place during aerobatic flight.
11