SIG SIGRC80 Rascal C, Instruction Book, Page: 28 / 31

.
Use a small piece of aluminum foil over at the back of the fuselage, just behind the pushrod exit, to protect the fuselage
from a possible stray drop of solder. Slip a brass tube connector onto the cable. As before, line-up the end of the
connector wire with the end of the cable and slide the brass tube halfway onto the connector. Place a small amount of flux
on the cable/tube/connector joint and use a small amount of solder to sweat the joint together. Remove the foil and tape
from the elevators and test the elevator movement with your radio. Turn the fuselage over and repeat this process with the
rudder connection.
If you have built the glow version of this model, you must now make the throttle pushrod connections. As shown on the
plans, the cable pushrod slips into its housing tube and extends from the engines throttle arm back through the fuselage to
the throttle servo. Use a small scrap piece of 1/8" balsa to wedge the servo end of the pushrod tube out toward the servos
output arm. Use your radio system to run the throttle servo to one end of its total travel and reposition the output arm
accordingly. Make absolutely sure that the servo is traveling in the right direction to provide high and low throttle
movements to the engine! Make two more wire Z-bend connectors from the remaining paper clip wire. Using the method
described earlier, solder one of these connectors onto one end of the 12" length of supplied throttle cable with a brass
tube joiner. Attach the connector to the engine s throttle arm (on our Norvel BigMig .061 engines, we used the bottom
hole). Insert the bare end of the throttle cable into the throttle tube at the firewall and temporarily mount the engine in place
to the firewall with just two bolts.
Line the throttle cable up with the remaining wire connector and mark where it is to be cut with your marker pen. Remove
the engine and cable. Cut the cable to length at the mark just made.Reinstall the cable and engine. Back in the servo
compartment, slip a brass joiner tube over the cable end, line-up the wire connector and slide the tube over the wire end,
supporting both the cable and the wire. Apply a little flux to this joint and use just a little solder to sweat these joints
together. Test the throttle pushrod system with your radio.
With the servo connections now made, the control movements can now be set to
the following suggested throws. If you are using a modern radio, with servo
movement control capability, these movements can be simply inputted through
the transmitter. Last, be sure to secure the servo output arms in place with their
locking screws.
Recommended Initial Control
Movements
RUDDER 3/8 Right, 3/8 Left
ELEVATORS 1/4 Up, 1/4 Down
Balance
As shown on the plans, the Center of Balance (or Center of Gravity) for both versions of the R/C Rascal is located directly
on the wing spar. Before attempting to balance the model, remember the following:
WHEN BALANCING THE GLOW ENGINE VERSION OF THIS MODEL, THE FUEL TANK MUST BE EMPTY.
WHEN BALANCING THE ELECTRIC VERSION, THE AIRBORNE BATTERY PACK MUST BE INSTALLED.
The most efficient method for establishing the correct CG location is to shift the position of the batteries as needed, until
the airplane balances at the spar. If for some reason this does not work and you still find that you need more weight either
up front or at the rear, then you must consider the use of clay, lead or brass weights. DO NOT attempt to fly this model
with a CG location behind the spar. A CG location that is a little ahead of the position shown will not necessarily be a
problem but may result in having to add a small amount of up elevator trim in flight to compensate for a nose heavy
condition. To maximize the flight potential of your R/C Rascal, we strongly suggest using weights to properly balance the
model. The amount of weight needed to achieve balance will likely be very small.
Weight in the nose area is easy to conceal either just behind the firewall or secured to the firewall, on it s front face. For tail
weight, we suggest using commercially available stick-on lead weights, such as those from Prather Products. Later, after
test flying and fine tuning the airplane, the weight can be placed inside the rear of the fuselage by simply cutting or drilling
a small hole in the bottom, just behind Former F-7. Insert the weight into the hole, pushing it as far back as possible. Clean
up the area with alcohol and recover the hole with iron-on covering. This simple fix is all but invisible.
Propellers
We did a lot of propeller experimenting with both versions of this model. While our tests were certainly not scientific, they
did serve to help us make our decisions. The following are our findings and suggestions. You should experiment with your
own model to determine the ideal combination of power and propellers.
ELECTRIC VERSION:
Using the Maxx Products Speed 400 motor and gearbox unit, we liked and used 8" diameter props with pitches of 4 to 6 .
We tried both wood and plastic props and found a fair amount of differences in all of them. Eventually we discovered the
new APC Electric props and in particular, their 8"x6" prop, P/N LP08060E. This prop has turned out to be outstanding in all
around performance with the R/C Rascal.