TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
15
SYMPTOM
Motor will not run
Motor runs hot and
overload kicks off
Motor runs but no
water is delivered
*(Note: Check
prime before look-
ing for other
causes. Unscrew
pressure gauge
and see if there is
water in priming
hole)
Pump does not de-
liver water to full
capacity (Also
check point 3 im-
mediately above)
Pump pumps water
but does not shut
off
Pump cycles too
frequently
Air spurts from
faucets
POSSIBLE CAUSE(S)
1. Disconnect switch is off
2. Fuse is blown
3. Starting switch is defective
4. Wires at motor are loose, discon-
nected, or wired incorrectly
5. Pressure switch contacts are dirty
6. Wrong voltage
1. Motor is wired incorrectly
2. Voltage is too low
3. Pump cycles too frequently
*1. Pump in a new installation did not
pick up prime through:
a. Improper priming
b. Air leaks
c. Leaking foot valve
*2. Pump has lost its prime through:
a. Air leaks
b. Water level below suction of
pump
3. Ejector or impeller is plugged
4. Check valve or foot valve is stuck
in closed position
5. Pipes are frozen
6. Foot valve and/or strainer are
buried in sand or mud
1. Water level in well is lower than es-
timated
2. Steel piping (if used) is corroded or
limed, causing excess friction
3. Offset piping is too small in size
1. Pressure switch is out of adjust-
ment or contacts are “frozen”
2. Faucets have been left open
3. Ejector or impeller is clogged
4. Water level in well is lower than es-
timated
5. Wrong voltage
1. Standard pressure tank is water-
logged and has no air cushion
2. Pipes leak
3. Faucets or valves are open
4. Foot valve leaks
5. Pressure switch is out of adjust-
ment
6. Air charge too low in Captive Air
®
tank
1. Pump is picking up prime
2. Leak in suction side of pump
3. Well is gaseous
4. Intermittent overpumping of well
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Be sure switch is on
2. Replace fuse
3. Replace starting switch
4. Refer to instructions on wiring. Check and tighten all
wiring.
5. Clean by sliding piece of plain paper between contacts
6. Make sure motor voltage exactly matches power supply
voltage.
1. Refer to instructions on wiring
2. Check with power company. Install heavier wiring if wire
size is too small. See wiring instructions.
3. See section below on too frequent cycling
1. In new installation
a. Re-prime according to instructions
b. Check all connections on suction line, air volume con-
trol, and ejector
c. Replace foot valve
2. In installation already in use:
a. Check all connections on suction line, air volume con-
trol, ejector and shaft seal
b. Lower suction line into water and re-prime. If receding
water level in a shallow well operation exceeds suction
lift, a deep well pump is needed.
3. Clean ejector or impeller; see Maintenance
4. Replace check valve or foot valve
5. Thaw pipes. Bury pipes below frost line. Heat pit or pump
house.
6. Raise foot valve and/or strainer above well bottom
1. Lower ejector in well
2. Replace with plastic pipe where possible, otherwise with
new steel pipe
3. Use larger offset piping
1. Adjust or replace pressure switch
2. Close faucets
3. Clean ejector or impeller
4. Check possibility of using a deep well jet pump
5. Make sure motor voltage exactly matches power supply
voltage.
1. Drain tank to air volume control tapping. Check air volume
control for defects. Check for air leaks at any connection.
2. Check connections
3. Close faucets or valves
4. Replace foot valve
5. Adjust or replace pressure switch
6. Disconnect electrical power and open faucets until all
pressure is relieved. Using automobile tire pressure
gauge, check air pressure in tank at the valve stem lo-
cated at top of tank. If less than the pressure switch cut-in
setting, pump air into tank from outside source until the air
pressure is the same as cut-in setting of switch. Check air
valve for leaks, using soapy solution, and replace core if
necessary.
1. As soon as pump picks up prime, all air will be ejected
2. Check suction piping
3. Change installation, see Maintenance
4. Lower foot valve if possible, otherwise restrict discharge
side of pump
