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5/32” Allen hex wrench. Pull out the stylus and reinstall a new one. Be sure to place the groove
near the back end of the stylus on to the flange of the knurled knob. Reinstall the ¼-20 socket
head cap screw and 7/16” hex nut – do not tighten it so tight that you cannot move the stylus in
and out by turning the knurled adjustment knob. Also do not tighten the screw so loose that you
can wobble the stylus from side-to-side with your hand. Refer to Depth Adjustment on page 9.
The Cutter Shaft
Remove the left-hand nut and cutter wheel. Remove the access plate and wire brush if installed on your
RY100 and loosen the four motor mounting screws to loosen the drive belt. Loosen the two #10-32 socket
head cap screws located on the top front edge of the cutter head – use your 3/16” Allen hex wrench. Loosen
them about 1 full turn each.
Pull out the entire cutter shaft assembly and replace with a new one. Reassemble in the reverse order from
above.
The Carriage Spring
Turn the machine over on a piece of thick carpet (you don’t want to damage the power switch located on the
front of the machine). Use your 3/16” Allen hex wrench and remove the ¼-20 x ¾” long socket head cap
screw that secures the linkage to the “stick-shift” lever’s drive shaft. Drop the linkage assembly and pull out
the “stick-shift” lever and drive shaft assembly. Leave the two piece linkage assembly attached to the carriage
shaft.
If your carriage spring is still attached – grasp the linkages with your left hand and use the linkages as a lever
to hold the carriage shaft from turning when you release the carriage. With your right hand release the car-
riage in the same way you would do if you were going to cut a key. This will require a bit of muscle in your left
hand because you’re trying to hold onto the linkages while trying to release the carriage against the carriage
spring at the same time.
When you’ve released the carriage you will notice that everything got easy all of a sudden and the carriage
spring will probably fall out by itself. At the bottom of the carriage there is a1/4” wide slot with a pin in it – use
a small hammer and drive the pin to nearly flush with the bottom of the carriage.
From the front of the carriage install a new carriage spring and retaining pin - the retaining pin will lay in a
milled groove on the face of the carriage. Hold the spring and its pin in place and manipulate the other end of
the carriage spring onto the ¼” diameter grooved pin going through the carriage shaft. If the spring won’t
reach to the pin you have your carriage in the locked back position - release the carriage and manipulate the
carriage and carriage shaft (hold onto the
Test to see if the new carriage shaft slides between the two bearings. If you were careful and pounded them
in straight you should be able to continue with the rest of the reassembly right away. If the carriage shaft is
just a little stiff you can probably leave it alone and let it work itself in over time. If the carriage shaft seems to
be tight then use a medium size plastic mallet and tap on the shaft in all directions accessible to “settle” in the
bearings. Stop when the carriage shaft gets just loose enough to use.
Reassemble in the reverse order and refer to section in this manual titled HOW DO I REPLACE. .
The Carriage Spring and complete your assembly.
You should recheck the depth, depth over travel and space adjustments on your machine and readjust as
necessary.
WHY DID WE DO IT THAT WAY . . .
Key Gauges
We are often asked why
we didn’t make our key gauges flip down automatically when the carriage is released.
It’s a good question and deserves answering. We chose full-function key gauges instead. We’re committed
to incorporate unique and useful features into our products wherever we can. We felt that if we could incorpo-
rate a built-in key gauging system that worked for almost all the key gauging requirements you would benefit
more from this than having ordinary top shoulder key gauges that automatically blip-away when the carriage is
released. Think about it – three key gauging possibilities that don’t flip away automatically verses only one
key gauging possibility that does flip away.
