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9
ASSEMBLY
CLAMPING SCROLL SAW TO WORKBENCH
See Figure 4, page 16.
If the scroll saw is to be used in a portable application, it is
recommended that you fasten it permanently to a mount-
ing board that can easily be clamped to a workbench or
other supporting surface. The mounting board should be
of sufficient size to avoid tipping of saw while in use. Any
good grade plywood or chipboard with a 3/4 in. thickness
is recommended.
Mount saw to board using holes in saw base as a template
for hole pattern. Locate and mark the holes where scroll
saw is to be mounted.
Follow last three steps in previous section called
“Mounting Scroll Saw to Workbench”.
If lag bolts are being used, make sure they are long enough
to go through holes in the saw base and the material the
saw is being mounted to.
If machine bolts are being used, make sure they are long
enough to go through holes in the saw base, the material
the saw is being mounted to, and the washers and nuts.
NOTE:
It may be necessary to countersink washers and nuts
on the bottom side of mounting board.
SAWDUST BLOWER
See Figure 5, page 16.
The sawdust blower is designed and preset to direct air to
the most effective point on the cutting line. Be sure drop
foot is properly adjusted to secure workpiece and direct air
to the cutting surface.
Plastic tubing should be connected to the bellows tube
before starting the saw.
DROP FOOT
See Figure 5, page 16.
To prevent workpiece from lifting, the drop foot should be
adjusted so it just rests on the top of the workpiece. The
drop foot should not be adjusted so that the workpiece
drags. Always retighten the drop foot lock knob after each
adjustment has been made.
Loosen the drop foot lock knob.
Lower or raise the drop foot to the desired position
.
Retighten the drop foot lock knob.
The tall, front part of the drop foot acts as a blade guard to
prevent accidental contact with the blade.
SQUARING THE SAW TABLE TO THE BLADE
See Figures 6 - 7, page 16.
Loosen the drop foot lock knob and move drop foot rod
all the way up. Retighten drop foot lock knob.
Loosen the table lock knob to tilt the saw table until it is
approximately perpendicular or at right angle to the blade.
Place a small square on the saw table next to the blade.
Loosen the screw holding the scale indicator.
Move indica-
tor to the 0° mark and securely tighten screw. Remember,
the bevel scale is a convenient guide but should not be
relied upon for precision. Make practice cuts on scrap
material to determine if your angle settings are correct.
Adjust the drop foot to desired position and securely
retighten the drop foot lock knob.
SETTING THE TABLE FOR HORIZONTAL OR
BEVEL CUTTING
See Figure 7, page 16.
A bevel scale is located under the saw table as a convenient
guide for setting the approximate saw table angle for bevel
cutting. When greater precision is required, make practice
cuts on scrap material and adjust the saw table as necessary
for your requirements.
NOTE:
When cutting at angles, the drop foot should be
tilted so it is parallel to the saw table and rests flat against
the workpiece. To tilt the drop foot, loosen phillips screw, tilt
drop foot to the proper angle, then retighten screw.
Loosen the drop foot lock knob.
Center the drop foot around the saw blade to the desired
position.
Tighten the drop foot lock knob.
ADJUSTING BLADE TENSION
See Figure 8, page 17.
Turning the blade tension knob counterclockwise
decreases (or loosens) blade tension.
Turning the blade tension knob clockwise increases (or
tightens) blade tension.
NOTE:
Adjustments to blade tension can be made at any time.
Check tension by the sound the blade makes when plucked
like a guitar string. This method of adding tension to the
blade can be developed with practice and requires knowing
the scroll saw.
Pluck the back straight edge of blade while turning ten-
sion adjusting knob. Sound should be a musical note.
Sound becomes less flat as tension increases. Sound
decreases with too much tension.
NOTE
: Be careful not to adjust blade too tight. Too much
tension may cause the blade to break as soon as you start
cutting. Too little tension may cause the blade to bend or
break before the teeth wear out.