Raleigh 2008, Owner'S Manual, Page: 18 / 32

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6. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel with Coaster Brake
a. Disengage the coaster
brake arm from its frame bracket
(see fig. 15).
b. With a correctly sized socket,
box, open end or adjustable
wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
c. Push the wheel forward to
slacken the chain, and remove the
chain from the chainring and wheel sprocket.
d. Pull the wheel out of the frame.
7. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel with Coaster Brake
a. Put the chain on to the wheel sprocket. Then, insert
the wheel into the frame dropouts and push it all the way in to
the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside,
between the frame and the axle nut.
b. Put the chain on to the chainring.
c. Pull the wheel back in the dropouts so that it is straight
in the frame and the chain has about 1/4 inches of up-and-
down play.
d. Secure the coaster brake arm to its frame bracket (see
fig. 15), but do not fully tighten the securing nut and bolt.
e. Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a
correctly sized socket, box, open end or adjustable wrench.
Spin the wheel to make sure it is straight in the frame.
f. Fully tighten the coaster brake arm securing nut and bolt
and check to make sure the brake is functioning correctly.
C. Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front
wheel when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is
in the forwardmost position. This is common on small-framed
bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and
the outside pedal down when turning.
!
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control
and fall. If you have toe overlap, exercise extra care when
turning. A brake rotor (see Section 4.A.2.b) may also decrease
the clearance between the front wheel and the pedal when
the wheel is turned backwards.
2. Some higher performance bicycles come equipped
with pedals that have abrasive and potentially dangerous
surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by
increasing adhesion between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If
your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you must
take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp
surfaces. Based on your riding style or skill level, you may prefer
a less aggressive pedal design. Your dealer can show you a
number of options and make suitable recommendations.
3. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”)
are another means to keep feet securely in the correct
position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They look like ski
bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring-
loaded fixture on the pedal ... but unlike ski bindings, they only
engage or disengage with a very specific motion which must
be practiced to become instinctive. Clipless pedals require
shoes and cleats which are compatible with the make and
model pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to
adjust the amount of force needed to engage or disengage
the foot. Follow the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or
ask your dealer to show you how to make this adjustment.
Use the easiest setting until engaging and disengaging