drill. If the awl, screwdriver or saw hits "solid" after the wallboard or plaster is
pierced or if the drill produces sawdust after the initial wallboard/plaster dust, you
have probably hit a wooden stud—which will obstruct that location. If drilling
becomes harder after piercing the wallboard or plaster, remember it could be
plumbing, mechanical, or electrical material. If you feel unusual resistance or
sense an obstruction, stop. Consider the situation and carefully make another
small exploratory hole about 1 1/2" to the side where you would prefer the
speaker location to move.
When your small exploratory hole avoids obvious obstruction, enlarge that hole
slightly with the screwdriver and hammer (or wallboard saw) until you can extend
a short probe wire/fish-tape through the hole and determine the location of the
stud on each side and other obstructions. Adjust your layout if necessary and
then enlarge the hole slightly so that you can see into the wall cavity (aided by a
flashlight) and confirm there are no further obstructions.
Continue this process of initial layout, exploratory holes, determining hole, and
confirming hole at each intended location in a related group before proceeding
with full cutouts. You can then modify the initial layout as required to avoid the
inevitable discovered conflicts and maintain a desired layout for acoustical
performance and visual aesthetics—while avoiding and minimizing any excess
cutting and patching.
Cut a hole large enough to see left and right stud locations. Center the template
on the wall based on those locations. The cutout will have to be well centered
between the wall studs. There isn’t enough space between the studs to allow any
side shift.
Now cut out the full rough-opening being careful to avoid over-cutting, breaking
edges of the opening, or damaging surrounding paint or wallpaper finishes. A
wallboard handsaw, preferably with replaceable blades, is the normal tool.
Powered drywall cutters can also be used if you are careful to cut in a straight
line or if you use a guide. The Finish Frames are about 3/4" wide around the
Grilles on the finish surface and extend about 5/8” beyond the rough opening
cutout, which should be quite adequate cover with reasonable care in layout and
cutout.
Check that openings are large enough and plumb by test fitting the speaker into
the opening. A wallboard rasp block/plane is very useful to slightly expand and
square up openings. A small level on or against the Frame easily confirms level
and plumb.
Place the system into the wall cutout. If there is extra slack in the cutout then
level and position the system before tightening the screws or after slightly
tightening one or two of the screws. Use a number 2 Philips head screwdriver or
any style and size that properly fits the screw head. Note: using bits that are too
small will lead to damaging the screw head and may make it very difficult to
sufficiently tighten or untighten the mounting screws.
Initial tightening may take considerable force as the screw forms a thread
through the mounting leg. This will loosen as the screw continues to turn. Set
driver torque with just enough force to start the screw turning. DO NOT
OVERTIGHTEN. The system has been well designed to prevent stripping or
damage from over tightening but PSB cannot be responsible for damage due to
unreasonable force being used when mounting the system.
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