B. Conventional Wiring
Connect speakers identically to your amplifier or receiver on each channel Red
amp/receiver terminal to Red speaker terminal, Black to Black. This will ensure
that the diaphragms of the speakers on both channels move forward and
backward together (“in-phase”), rather than in opposition (“out-of-phase”). In-
phase connection provides maximum clarity and bass, while out-of-phase
connection results in frequency cancellations and produces thinner and less
distinct sound—with less bass, vague vocal quality, and no solid center image.
To help ensure the proper connection, the two separate conducting wires in a
standard two-conductor speaker cable are coded in one way or another to be
distinguishable from each other. (The jacket of one wire may be ribbed or
marked with “+” signs, or one wire under the insulation may be a different color
from the other.) Use this wire-coding, together with the amp/receiver and
speaker color-coding, to be sure you are connecting the same wire of a given
pair to a like-coded terminal at both ends of your connection. Assure all wiring
terminals are tightened firmly but be careful not to overtighten and damage the
connectors.
The symmetrical array assures symmetrical performance above and below the
tweeter midpoint, the center of the speaker.
C. Tricks of the Trades—Drilling
When running wire through wooden framing, drill clean holes slightly larger and
aligned with each other to be able to pull cable through in longer sections with
minimal snagging. Auger style drill bits with threaded tips are self-feeding, can
chew through an occasional nail, and save much strain (although they can
become jammed in thick timbers). Right angle drills help in narrow spots to get
holes drilled and to maintain hole alignment. Short spade bits also get the job
done more easily in tight spots between studs.
X. GRILLES
A. Installing and Removing
Install Grilles by aligning one edge and corner against the Finish Frame and then
working the edges and corners of the Grille into the Finish Frame—avoiding force
which can bend the grill or scratch the edges of the Finish Frame.
Removing a Grille is most easily accomplished without scratching the finish by
inserting an unfolded paper clip or a small brad nail into a perforation and gently
pulling forward at several locations near a corner to start the removal. Once a
corner is free, work your way along the grille until your second corner is free.
Only then can you pull on the grille evenly with two hands. Rocking in and out will
release the whole grille and prevent serious bending.
B. Grille Alternatives—Scrims, Hole Shapes and Sizes
Grilles must be designed for acoustical transparency and also for visual
opaqueness, and paintability. The relatively small perforations in a slightly thicker
material provide visual opaqueness, paintability and strength, while maintaining
acoustical transparency.
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