We cannot recommend #22 or #24 Gauge gold and silver colored wire commonly labeled
"speaker wire" and sold at a variety of consumer outlets. This wire is suitable only for
low cost, low power applications, such as with low power extension speakers. It is
absolutely not meant t o be used with high quality systems. Also, NEVER use telephone
wire, solid bell or magnet wire, or anything other than the previously recommended
types of wire. This will ensure your obtaining the maximum possible performance from
your speakers.
POLARIZING OR CODING
Polarized or coded wire is characterized by a clearly visible difference between the two
leads of the cord. This feature makes it simple to keep track of correct connections
between terminals marked (+) or (-).
Here are several of the mo st common methods of coding
:
•
separate insulation jacket colors
•
a stripe or ridge running the length of one lead
•
different colored wires inside the insulating jacket
•
a strand of fabric contained within the jacket on one side only
NOTE:
All of our speakers conform to the industry standard designation of red as the
positive (+) input terminal and black as the negative (-) input (also known as "common"
or "ground"). Improper hookup will result in a significant loss of bass response and
poor quality sound reproduction. (see next paragraph for clarification)
IN-PHASE vs. OUT-OF-PHASE SOUND
When in-phase, the information recorded equally on both the left and right front
channels appears to come from the center between the two front speakers. The sound
source shifts smoothly as the listener moves about. If one speaker is connected to the
amplifier reversed (plus to minus) then your speakers will be out-of-phase with each
other. The resultant sound will lose much of the bass and seem to be coming from the
walls instead of the center soundstage. Overall, the sonic effect is annoyingly shrill.
The consequence of out-of-phase connections with subwoofers may be even more
noticeable. Take care to connect "right" channel terminals on amplifiers and/or
subwoofers to the "right" speaker and "left" channel terminals to the "left" speaker in
order to recreate the soundstage as the recording engineers intended.
WIRING
Having obtained the sufficient length and correct gauge of wire you are now ready to
hook up your speakers. Before making any connections, please turn off your whole
system and turn your volume control all the way down to prevent accidental overloads.
WIRE PREPARATION
First decide which of the two leads of wire you will use for the (+) connections. It does
not matter which, but make certain that this lead will be attached to the (+) terminals of
both the amplifier (or receiver) and the speakers while the other lead will be connected
to the respective (-) terminals as shown in Figure 3.
Cut the wire to the required lengths. Carefully separate the two leads on both ends of
each wire (a minimum of 1" - 1 1/2") and strip the insulation off of the end of each lead
(about 3/8"), making sure not to damage the fine strands of bare wire housed within the
insulating jacket. Twist together all strands of the bare wire so that they are neat and
tight.
CONNECTING TO TERMINALS
For the location of terminals refer to Figure 3. The ends of neatly twisted bare wire must
be inserted well into the hole of the push or slide s pring type terminal while the terminal
tab is held down by pushing against the spring tension. For binding post terminals the
wire must be inserted through the hole which becomes visible when the knurled knob is
screwed counterclockwise. The wire must then be secured by screwing the knob back
clockwise until snug. Remember, loose strands of wire may cause short circuits. When
connecting the wires to the amplifier or receiver's terminals, follow the manufacturer's
instructions. Upon completion, gently tug at all connections to ensure they are
fastened securely.
