10. After all leads are reconnected
in the connection box, make
a high voltage ground test
on each wire. The only wire
that should show ground is
the green power lead and the
ground lead in the aux il ia ry
control cable.
11. For safety, complete pump
should be air checked under
water for leaks. Lay pump
on side for this oil filling
with oil fill hole upright. Do
not completely fill; leave
oil about 1 inch below plug
hole. Use only Hydromatic
®
sub
mers
ible oil in this
chamber or high grade
trans form er oil. Re place plug;
use Permatex on threads.
Install air valve in top plug
open ing of motor housing and
charge housing with about
10 psi of air. Be sure air is
dry. Do not use air line where
water may be trapped in the
line. Submerge complete
unit under water and check
for leaks.
12. Refill motor chamber with oil.
Use high grade transformer
oil or Hydromatic special
sub mers ible oil. Fill chamber
until oil covers top of the
windings. Leave air space
in top for expansion. Use
Permatex on plug threads.
Replacing Seals and Bearings:
1. Drain all oil from motor
chamber and seal chamber
as described.
2.
Remove motor housing
as described.
3. Remove bolts that hold seal
cham ber to pump housing.
Use back-off screws to break
loose. With hardwood block,
tap end of impeller to loosen
from shaft. When free, re-
move impeller from shaft.
4. Lift rotating assembly (rotor,
shaft and impeller) from pump
case and place horizontally
on bench.
5. Impeller Removal
Hold rotor and remove bolt
and washer from impeller
end of shaft, then thread bolt
back into shaft. The impeller
is keyed to the shaft, so
by using a screwdriver on
opposite sides behind the
impeller, apply force, then tap
on the end of the bolt to break
impeller loose from taper
shaft. Remove impeller.
IMPORTANT: The impeller is
designed to be self- tightening
when running, so impeller may
be difficult to break loose. If this
is the case, use plastic or rubber
hammer on im pel ler tip to free.
Remove impeller.
6. Remove lower seal spring and
pry out seal with screwdriver.
7. To remove seal housing, take
out socket head bolts and
using bolts in back of holes,
pry plates loose. This will
force out lower seal if not
already removed.
8. Remove snap ring that holds
upper seal. Pull seal if it
is free. If not free, it can
be forced off when shaft
is removed.
9. Remove 4 bolts that hold
bearing housing in place. Set
assembly in upright position
and bump end of shaft on
hardwood block. This will
push the bearing from the
housing and will force upper
seal from shaft.
10. Use bearing puller to remove
bearings. Replace with new
bear
ings. Press only on
inner face of bearing when
replacing. Pressing on outer
face can damage the bearing.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE
ANY OF THE OLD SEAL
PARTS. REPLACE WITH
ALL NEW SEALS.
11. Thoroughly clean all castings
before replacing seals. One
grain of dirt between the seal
faces can cause failure.
12. Examine all O-rings for nicks
before using.
13. Use Locktite
®
on socket head
locking screw in end of shaft.
Pump
Troubleshooting
Below is a list of common
problems and the probable causes:
Pump will not start.
1. No power to the motor.
Check for blown fuse or open
circuit break er.
2. Selector switch may be in the
Off position.
3. Control circuit transformer
fuse may be blown.
4. Overload heater on starter
may be tripped. Push to reset.
Pump will not start and
overload heaters trip.
1. Turn off power and check
motor leads with Megger
or ohmmeter for possible
ground.
2. Check resistance of motor
wind ings. All 3 phases should
show the same reading.
3. If no grounds exist and the
motor windings check OK,
remove pump from sump
and check for clogged or
blocked impeller.
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