22)
Place the acrylic mounting plate onto the inside of the back panel of the enclosure in the
matching recess. Secure into place using 4 x #8 x 1/2" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws and 4 x nylon
washers through the pre-drilled holes in the mounting plate and back panel (do not over tighten). A
screwdriver can be inserted through the tweeter hole in the front panel for easy access.
23)
Connect the wires from the DC jack to the Dayton Audio LBB-3 3 x 18650 Lithium Battery
Charger Board/Module by stabbing the stripped ends of the red and black Consolidated 22 AWG Solid
Hook-Up Wire into the connectors labeled
VCC
(red wire) and
GND
(black wire) on the end of the
battery charger board. Note: You can depress the small indentation on the connector to release the wires
if needed.
24)
Unscrew the plastic knob on the binding posts inside the enclosure and insert the ends of the
woofer output wires through the holes in the sides of the binding posts (red to red and black to
black). Tighten the plastic knobs on each binding post securely. Double check that each wire is
securely held in place.
25)
Connect the 0.205" connectors on the wires inside one of the sub enclosures to the corresponding
connectors on one of the Dayton Audio DSA90-8 3" Designer Series Aluminum Cone Full-Range
Drivers red to + (marked with a red dot) and black to -. Carefully place the driver into the opening in the
sub-enclosure (it will be a tight fit, hold the terminals against the magnet and gently work the driver into
the opening). Secure the driver in place using 4 x #6 x 3/4" Deep Thread Pan Head Screws being careful
not to strip out the holes (a power drill is not recommended). Repeat for the other side.
26)
Pull the tweeter wires through the tweeter opening and crimp a 0.205" blue female disconnect to
each red wire and a 0.11" blue female disconnect to each wire. Connect the connectors from one wire to
the corresponding terminals on one of the Dayton Audio ND25TA-4 1" Titanium Dome Neodymium
Tweeters. Carefully place the tweeter into its opening and secure the tweeter in place using 4 x #6 x 3/4"
Deep Thread Pan Head Screws being careful not to strip out the holes (a power drill is not
recommended). Repeat for the other side.
27)
Cut a 6" – 8" piece of red/black speaker wire and strip 1/4" of insulation from each conductor on
one end of the wire and 3/4” of insulation from the other end. Insert the shorter stripped ends of the wire
into the terminals on the back of the amplifier board labeled
BASS
, (red to + and black to -). Ensure the
no strands of the wires are exposed from the terminal and secure wire in place using a small flat head
screwdriver.
28)
Cut a 12" piece of each red and black Consolidated 22 AWG Solid Hook-Up Wire and strip 1/4"
of insulation from each end. Insert one end of each wire into the terminals on the back of the amplifier
board labeled
DC IN
(red to + and black to -). Ensure that no strands of the wires are exposed from the
terminal and secure wire in place using a small flat head screwdriver.
29)
Pull the input wire from the crossover on the left side through the oval shaped opening in the top
of the enclosure. Connect the wire to the terminals on the amplifier board labeled
Lout
(red to + and
black to -). Ensure that no strands of the wires are exposed from the terminal and secure wire in place
using a small flat head screwdriver. Repeat for the right crossover input wire to the
Rout
terminal.
Summary of Contents for Blast Box
Page 19: ...Blast Box Crossover Schematic...
