Construction Manual
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Page 3
• Hobby knife and #10 blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• String (18” length)
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 6 and 30 minute epoxy
• Adhesives of your choice. We recommend thin and medium
CA (cyanoacrylate) viscosities
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks
• Threadlocking compound
• Torch or soldering iron, solder and flux
• Canopy glue
Before Starting Assembly
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.
A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no
damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so there will
be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
For each step, we highly recommend that you dry fit the parts in
each step first. Lightly sand as needed to ensure a good fit. Once
you’re satisfied with the fit, then and only then, glue the parts in
position.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THIS SKY
RANGER 40 KIT IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING
FORWARD IN THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE
PROPER LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as
you might want. So we’ve anticipated
this and made these photos available
on our website. You can either scan the
QR code or type this address into your
browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/sr40
Let’s begin construction by working on the right (starboard)
wing of your Sky Ranger 40.
Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building surface that is a minimum of 36” long.
Position the right wing plan over the surface and tape into position.
Tear off a length of waxed paper long enough to cover the right
wing plan and tape that into position, over the plan.
Step 1 - Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP4 are two triangles,
one inside the other. These can be
used to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of your
Sky Ranger 40. LP4 also includes
two foot pieces that can be used
with the triangles to hold both triangles vertical hands-free.
We recommend using the smaller triangle in the wing construction
as it’s small enough to fit between the ribs.
Step 2 - Wing Assembly (position lower spar)
Using a length of 3/16 x
3/8” basswood, attach
the lower spar over the
plans, using a couple
small drops of medium
CA instead of t-pins. Be sure it is aligned properly and is straight
over it’s entire length. The alignment of this spar is critical as the
rest of the wing panel is based off this single piece.
Step 3 - Wing Assembly (outer wing tip)
The wing panels are constructed
from the outside (tips), in
towards the center (root).
Remove parts R5 and R6 from
one of the BP4 sheets. Also
remove T1, T2, T3 from one of
the BP5 sheets. Slide T1, T2, &
T3 in place on R6 to make the
R6 assembly. Then, position R5
as shown here and gently push
the R6 assembly into place.
Note that the positioning of R5
is important as you will make a left and a right side. Once satisfied
with the fit, glue everything in place.
Step 4 - Wing Assembly (attach first WB2s)
Remove two WB2 sheer
web pieces from one of
the BP6 sheets. They fit
as shown here, one in
the front vertical slots,
one in the rear slots.
Place the front WB2 in
it’s slot, making sure it’s
pushed completely in
the slots and perfectly
butted up against R5 and at a 90° angle. Now place a few drops of
thin CA in the joint. It will cure in just a matter of seconds, holding
it in place. Do the same for the other WB2.
