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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
GORCH FOCK
HULL
PHOTO 1.
Start by joining the parts that make up the false keel (1) and then glue on the reinforcing pieces (2 & 3). Following
the numerical order indicated in the photo, fit the frames (4 to 16). Before gluing the frames in place make sure that they fit
correctly into position, “flush” with the corresponding slots in the false keel. It is important that the frames be completely
perpendicular to the false keel so that the decks can subsequently be fitted correctly into place. For this operation use white
(carpenter’s) glue as the adhesive.
PHOTO 2.
Insert and fix in place the frame (17) and the reinforcement (18).
PHOTO 3.
Apply glue and stick the bowsprit deck (19) and the reinforcement (20) into place.
PHOTO 4.
Check and align the sections of the lower deck (21 & 22), and then fix them definitively in place.
PHOTO 5.
Measure up the interior distance between the frame ends and cut lengths of beam (23) to size, then fit and glue the
beams into place.
PHOTO 6.
Cut a 65 mm length of the lining (24) and, using a pencil, mark it’s four edges.
PHOTOS 7 - 9.
Use a pencil to mark a lengthways line to divide the deck (25) into two symmetrical halves. Start to line the deck
with planking strips at the straightest part, flush with the pencil line, using contact adhesive (cobblers glue). Carefully read the
adhesive manufacturer’s instructions. Leave the back part of the deck incomplete, as shown.
PHOTOS 10 & 11
. Using the wooden handle of a tool, press the planking hard against the deck, to make sure that it sticks
firmly. Place the deck face down and trim off the excess strips, as shown in the photos. Then mark two points at each end of the
planking where it meets, to simulate nails.
PHOTO 12.
Glue the lined deck onto the structure of the ship. It is important that you make sure that it is correctly supported on
the frames. Use quick-drying glue for this process.
PHOTO 13
. Apply glue to the reinforcements (26) on the fore end of the false keel.
PHOTOS 14 & 15.
Glue the deck section (27) as a continuation of the deck section (25) and, after this, glue in place the deck
section (28).
PHOTOS 16 & 17
. Continue by gluing the deck planking (24) into place, until you reach the stern. Sand the planking down with
a sanding-block, both along the edges and the surface, to eliminate any possible differences in level and leave it ready to be
varnished. Finally, using a cutter, reopen the holes, as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 18 & 19
. Apply glue to the bow reinforcements (29) and glue them into place. Check out how the ship’s hull should
look when you have finished this operation, as shown in the photo
PHOTOS 20 - 24
. Glue the parts (30 – 33) together in order to make up the aft companion hatch. Then apply filler to hide the
joints between the pieces. When this has dried file it down to eliminate the excess filler and then paint it white. We recommend
that you use water-based acrylic paint with a satin finish.
PHOTO 25
. Apply glue and insert the projections of the bottom part of the deckhouse into the holes left in the deck.
PHOTO 26
. Apply a colourless pore-filling lacquer to the whole of the surface of the deck. Various coats can be applied until you
get a finish that you are satisfied with. You should sand the surface down between each coat and follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.
PHOTO 27.
Sand down and paint the 1 x 3 mm strips dark green and then cut them to size and fit them as baseboards for the
fore deckhouse (no. 34).
PHOTO 28.
Using a fine brush touch up the edges of the baseboard (34) and then paint the doors (35) white and glue three of
them to the deckhouse, distributed as shown in the photo. Then glue two more doors on the other side of the deckhouse, to
achieve a symmetrical effect.
PHOTO 29.
Paint the aft bulkhead (36) white and fix it onto the deck. Insert and glue the four rivets (37) in place.
PHOTOS 30 & 31.
Glue the parts (38) to the parts (41) to make up the aft deckhouse. Fill, sand down and paint the deckhouse
in the same way as the fore deckhouse.
PHOTOS 32 - 34.
Glue the deckhouse onto the aft bulkhead. Insert and fit two rivets (37). Make up and glue the baseboards
(34) onto the deckhouse. Glue the doors (35) into place, as shown in the photo.
PHOTOS 35 - 37.
Line the deck (42) using the planking (43), previously cut into 65 mm lengths. Use a pencil to simulate nails,
as you did with the other deck. Apply glue and fix the deck (42) onto the bow end of the hull.
PHOTOS 38 & 39.
Line the deck (44) with the planking (45), having previously cut the planking to size. Sand down and fix the
deck in the area at the stern end of the hull.
PHOTOS 40 & 41.
Rub down and apply colourless pore-filling lacquer to the forecastle deck (42) and the quarter deck (44). The
photos show how the ship’s hull should look with the decks fitted into place.
PHOTOS 42 - 46.
Apply glue and fix the reinforcements (46 – 52), as shown in our photos. Remember they must be fitted
symmetrically to both sides of the hull.
PHOTOS 47 - 49.
Place the hull upside down and using a half-round file start to file the hull down, working from the bow and
back towards the stern. You must work on the reinforcement pieces and the edges of the frames, but without spoiling their
original shape.
In the area of the bow the false keel must be filed down to a sharp edge. The sanding/filing work on the hull must
be symmetrical, i.e. the right side must end up the same as the left side.
For the area in the middle of the hull use a sanding
block, with a larger surface. For the area of the stern you can use a sanding block and for the most curved parts a half-round
file. The sanding/filing work must be progressive and smooth.
PHOTO 50.
Use a length of strip to check that the filing/sanding finish is correct. To do so you have to slide the strip over the
frames to see how well it adjusts to their form.
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