22
23
4.B.2.F. Installing wheels with female axles
and male bolts
Some Nukeproof bikes will be supplied with a
Female axle with Male bolt, a 5mm Allen Key
is needed for the install of the Male Bolt.
Female axles are threaded and Male bolts
screw into this thread.
1. Insert the wheels to the fork and frame
dropouts, ensure the rotor is aligned
with the caliper to avoid damage when
installing. For the rear wheel please
ensure the gears if applicable are in
the smallest sprocket and pull the
derailleur rearwards to give more room
for install. Ensure the hub endcaps are
seated correctly in the dropouts for a
secure fit.
2. Screw the Male bolts clockwise to the
hub axle, consult with your Authorised
Nukeproof Dealer for the correct Nm
torque.
Ensure the correct tools are used when fitting
and removing Male bolts, if you are unsure,
please consult with your Authorised Nukeproof
Dealer.
If the Male bolt is stiff when installing, it may be
cross-threading, stop immediately and check
seating of hubs and dropouts. Any further
concerns please consult with your Authorised
Nukeproof Dealer.
Ensure the Male Bolts are checked before and
after each ride to ensure they are tight.
Riding with loose Male bolts can result in loss
of control, injury, and death.
If you are unsure on fitting wheels with Male
bolts, please consult with your Authorised
Nukeproof Dealer.
4 . C . B R A K E S
Warning: Riding with improperly
adjusted brakes or worn brake
pads is dangerous and can result in
serious injury or death.
Applying brakes too hard or too
suddenly can lock up a wheel, which
could cause you to lose control and
fall. Sudden or excessive application
of the front brake may pitch the rider
over the handlebars, which may
result in serious injury or death.
See the brake manufacturer’s
instructions for operation and care
of your brakes. If you do not have
the manufacturer’s instructions, see
your Authorised Nukeproof Dealer or
contact the brake manufacturer.
4.C.1. Brake controls and featues
Nukeproof bikes are all equipped with powerful
modern disc brake systems. Disc brake
systems offer exceptional control and power.
Please note power will improve with some
use once the pads and discs have bedded
in. Ensure you familiarise yourself with which
lever operates the front or rear brakes. Your
Authorised Nukeproof Dealer will set the
brakes to the way they are typically used in
your country, but please check lever orientation
or get the brakes set to your preference by
your Authorised Nukeproof Dealer. Adjust
the position of the brake levers so the lever
is in a comfortable position and easy to pull.
Brake performance will vary with riding terrain
and weather conditions, familiarise yourself
with your brake’s performance in different
conditions.
4.C.2. How brakes work
The braking action of a bicycle is a function
of the friction between the brake surfaces –
Nukeproof bikes use disc brake. These work
with friction between brake pads and disc
surface.
To make sure that you have maximum friction
available, keep your brakes clean and free of
dirt, lubricants, waxes, or polishes. Brakes are
designed to control your speed, not just to stop
the bike.
Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs
at the point just before the wheel “locks up”
(stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire
skids, you lose most of your stopping force and
all directional control.
You need to practice slowing and stopping
smoothly without locking up a wheel.
The technique is called progressive brake
modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever
to the position where you think you’ll generate
appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever,
progressively increasing the braking force.
If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release
pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating
just short of lockup.
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount
of brake lever pressure required for each
wheel at different speeds and on different
surfaces.
To better understand this, experiment a little
by walking your bike and applying different
amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until
the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the
bike begins to slow, but your body wants to
continue at the speed at which it was going.
This causes a transfer of weight to the front
wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the
front wheel hub, which could send you flying
over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept
greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel
with less weight will lock up with less brake
pressure.
So, as you apply brakes and your weight is
transferred forward, you need to shift your
body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer
weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the
same time, you need to both decrease rear
braking and increase front braking force.
This is even more important on descents
because descents shift weight forward. Two
keys to effective speed control and safe
stopping are controlling wheel lockup and
weight transfer.
Practice braking and weight transfer
techniques where there is no traffic or other
hazards and distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose
surfaces or in wet weather.
Tyre adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have
less cornering and braking traction and can
lock up with less brake force.
Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces
their ability to create friction.
The way to maintain control on loose or wet
surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.
4 . D . G E A R S
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur
drivetrain.
4.D.1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
The parts of the gear-changing mechanism
include:
•
A rear cassette or freewheel sprocket
cluster
•
A rear derailleur (Nukeproof bikes do
not use front derailleurs)
•
Single right shifter
•
One front sprocket called a chainring
•
A drive chain
4.D.1.A. Shifting Gears
There are several different types and styles of
shifting controls: levers, twist grips, triggers,
combination shift/brake controls and push-
buttons. Ask your Authorised Nukeproof Dealer
to explain the type of shifting controls that are
on your bike, and to show you how they work.
The vocabulary of shifting can be confusing:
•
A
downshift
is a shift to a “lower” or
“slower” gear, one which is easier to
pedal.
•
An
upshift
is a shift to a “higher” or
“faster”, harder to pedal gear.
What’s confusing is that what’s happening at
the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s
happening at the rear derailleur (for details,
read the instructions on Shifting the Rear
Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur