background image

*If motor has no ground tab 

(as shown here), solder the 

capacitors to motor can.

The Havoc Sport ESC has the industry-standard receiver input connector on 

a user-replaceable input harness & 

works with all major radio brand’s new 

receivers

. However, some very old receivers must have the wiring sequence 

in the plastic 3-pin connector housing changed. This is important, because 

receiver & servo electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.

JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z

JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, and Airtronics Z receivers do not need input 

harness re-wiring. 

Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO 

cases have tabs on the input harness openings

, as in 

Figure 1

.

•  Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of 

receiver with the 

BLACK wire toward the outside edge

 of receiver case.

•  Plug the other end of the input harness into 3-pin header on the ESC’s PC board 

with the 

WHITE wire toward the outside edge

 of the ESC (Note the ‘S’ (signal) 

marking on the pin-out label on the front of the ESC’s case below the PC board).

Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics

If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence 

of the ESC’s input harness wires—

Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black color 

& Old KO cases do not have tab openings

, as in 

Figure 2

 above.

•  Using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove the red & black wires from the 

plastic housing at the receiver end of the input harness as in Figure 3 below.

•  Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector housing at 

the receiver end of the input harness.

•  Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of receiver 

with the RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.

•  Plug the other end of the input harness into the ESC with the WHITE wire 

toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case.

FIGURE 3

With a small flat-bladed 

standard screwdriver, 

gently lift plastic prong 

until wire and metal 

socket easily slide out of 

plastic housing.

CHANGING WIRING SEQUENCE AT RECEIVER

F

IG

U

R

E

 1

F

IG

U

R

E

 2

New KO (with tabs)

Old KO (no tabs)

tabs

no tabs

black

red

red

white

black

white

P3

STEP 1--CONNECT INPUT HARNESS

1.  THERMALLY PROTECTED BRUSHLESS MOTOR REQUIRED

  This ESC is designed for Novak brushless motors (down to 8.5T) and 

WILL NOT

 

operate if used with motors that do not have built-in thermal protection.

2.  DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES WITH HAVOC ESC

  Schottky diodes must NOT be used with reversible ESCs (including brushless). 

Schottky diode usage will damage the ESC & void warranty.

3.  FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED

  The factory-installed Power Capacitor MUST be used with brushless & brush-type 

motors.

 If Power Capacitor becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can occur

-

-replace immediately. 

Longer Power Capacitor wires will decrease performance.

4.  CHECK FOR PROPER GEARING

  Refer to the ‘PROPER GEAR SELECTION’ portion of the PROGRAMMING/GEARING 

Sheet (Pg.5) to determine proper gearing & avoid overheating.

5.  SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR

  *Skip this step if installing complete system with ESC factory-wired to motor.

A.  Cut the 

BLUE, YELLOW & ORANGE

 silicone motor power wires to the desired 

length, and strip 1/8-3/16” of insulation from the end of each wire. Tightly 

twist the exposed strands of wire, and tin the exposed end section of each 

wire with solder with a good, high heat iron.

B.  Solder the ESC’s 

BLUE Phase ‘A’

 motor wire to the motor’s 

phase ‘A’ solder tab

Apply heat to exposed wire with soldering iron, and add solder to the tip of 

the iron & the wire—Add just enough solder to form a clean & continuous 

joint from the solder tab up onto the wire.

 

IMPORTANT NOTE:

 DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS

Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs (motor or ESC) will cause damage.

C.  Solder the ESC’s 

YELLOW Phase ‘B’

 motor wire to the motor’s 

phase ‘B’ solder 

tab

 as described in Step 5B above.

D.  Solder the ESC’s 

ORANGE Phase ‘C’

 motor wire to the motor’s 

phase ‘C’ solder 

tab

 as described in Step 5B above.

Note: Make sure no wire strands have strayed to an adjacent solder tab, this will 

result in short-circuiting & severe ESC damage, which will void the warranty.

6.  CONNECT MOTOR’S SENSOR HARNESS TO ESC

  Insert the 6-pin connector on the end of the motor’s sensor wires into ESC’s sensor 

harness socket--the connector is keyed and will only go together in one direction.

7.  INSTALL PINION GEAR 

(refer to Proper Gear Selection

 

on p.5)

8.  CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK

  Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a charged 

2-cell Li-Po or 4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) battery pack.

Note: ESC comes with LiPo Cut-Off Circuitry turned ON for operation with 

LiPo batteries--be sure to turn feature OFF if using NiMH or NiCd cells (Pg.6).

S T E P   3 - - M O U N T I N G   E S C

Mount the speed control with the power wires away from other electronics 

& moving parts. Select a location that allows airflow through heat sinks.
If the ESC gets air flow, it will run cooler, and that means it will be more 

efficient and you will go faster!

1. MOUNT SPEED CONTROL IN VEHICLE

  Use the included double-sided tape to mount ESC in vehicle (do not glue)

Avoid contact with side walls or other components to minimize vibration.

  Be  sure  the  receiver  and  antenna  are  mounted  as  far  from  the  speed 

control,  power  wires,  battery,  &  servo  as  possible--these  components 

all emit RF noise when the throttle is applied. On graphite or aluminum 

chassis vehicles, it may also help to place the receiver on its edge with the 

crystal and antenna as far above chassis as possible.

Note:  Mount the antenna as close to receiver as possible--trail 

any excess antenna wire off the top of the antenna mast (cutting 

or coiling excess antenna wire will reduce the radio range).

2. SECURE POWER CAPACITOR TO CHASSIS

  Use  the  included  double-sided  tape,  or  a  tie-wrap,  to  mount  the  Power 

Capacitor to the vehicle’s chassis or shock tower. Power Capacitor can also be 

tie-wrapped along the power wires—this requires less space on the chassis. 

3. INSTALL ON/OFF SWITCH

  Use a screw or the included double-sided tape, and mount the switch where 

it will be easy to access—be sure to select a position where it will not get 

damaged or get switched OFF during a crash or roll-over.

N O VA K   B R U S H L E S S   M O T O R S  

(Figure 4)

1.  DISCONNECT BRUSHLESS MOTOR SENSOR HARNESS

  The Havoc ESC automatically switches to Brush-Mode when the ESC power is 

switched ON and no brushless sensor harness is connected.

2.  INSTALL MOTOR CAPACITORS

  Electric brush-type motors generate RF noise that causes interference. Three 

0.1µF (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors must be used on all motors to 

reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.

Note: Some motors come with built-in capacitors. If your motor only has 2 capacitors, you 

need to install a capacitor between the positive & negative motor tabs––If you experience 

radio interference with built-in capacitors only, install external ones.

  Solder 0.1µF (50V) capacitors between:

  •  POSITIVE (+) & NEGATIVE (–) motor tabs.
  •  POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
  •  NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.

   

Negative (–) motor tab

   

0.1µF Capacitors

   

Positive (+) motor tab

   

Ground / motor can

3.  SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR

  With brush-type motors, the Havoc Sport ESC’s 

BLUE

 and 

YELLOW

 wires must 

be connected to the motor. It is recommended to use Novak’s 3.5mm Low-Loss 

Power Connectors (#5730-5733) for a strong connection.

A.  The 

ORANGE

  wire  is  unused  with  brush-type  motors.  It  can  be  either  de-

soldered from the ESC’s PCB, or heat shrinked and zip tied to prevent shorting.

B.  Connect the 

BLUE

 ESC wire to the 

NEGATIVE (–) Motor Tab

.

C.  Connect the 

YELLOW

 ESC wire to the 

POSITIVE (+) Motor Tab

.

4.  INSTALL PINION GEAR

 (refer to Proper Gear Selection on Pg.5)

FIGURE 5

If you are going to use connectors, we suggest low-loss battery connectors 

(do not use crimp type)

 like Dean’s Ultra.

• Use  polarized  connectors.  Reverse  voltage  will  damage  the  ESC  &   

  void warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting.

When wiring the vehicle’s electronics, short wires & neat/clean installations 

will give you better performance, higher efficiency, & less radio problems 

(glitching, etc.). Try your best to keep power wires away from signal wires 

& the receiver and antenna.

B

R

U

S

H

L

E

S

S

-M

O

D

E

 S

E

T

-U

P

 P

H

O

T

O

(F

IG

U

R

E

 4

)

B

R

U

S

H

-M

O

D

E

 S

E

T

-U

P

 P

H

O

T

O

 2

 Single W

ire Method (FIGURE 6)

ON/OFF

Switch

User-replaceable

input signal

harness (Ch.2)

Black power wire

 (batter

y negative)

Red power wire

(battery positive)

 Blue power wire

(motor phase ‘A’)

(–)

(+)

2S LiPo batter

y pack or 4 to 7 cell NiCd/NiMH

Yellow power wire

(motor phase ‘B’)

Orange power 

 wire (motor  

phase ‘C’)

Servo plugged into

steering ch. (#1) 

Novak sensor-based

brushless motor

down to 8.5 turns

P2

One-Touch

button

Power Cap

tie-wrapped

to wires

Yellow power wire

(–)

(+)

Brush-type

motor

(–)

(+)

C O N N E C T O R S   A N D   W I R I N G   H I N T S

Status LEDs

Fan power

output pins

ON/OFF

Switch

User-replaceable

input signal

harness (Ch.2)

Black power wire  (batter

y negative)

Trail excess 

wire off top of 

antenna mast

2S LiPo or 4 to 7 cell NiCd/NiMH batter

y pack

Servo plugged into

steering ch. (#1) 

One-Touch

button

Status LEDs

STEP 2--ESC/MOTOR/BATTERY WIRING

With ESC connected to (at least) a receiver & a charged battery pack:

1. TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER’S POWER
2. PRESS & HOLD ESC’S ONE-TOUCH/SET BUTTON
3. TURN ON THE SPEED CONTROL’S POWER

  With transmitter throttle at neutral, and still pressing the SET button, 

slide the ESC’s ON/OFF switch to 

ON

 position.

4. CONTINUE HOLDING SET BUTTON UNTIL RED LED COMES ON
5. RELEASE SET BUTTON AS SOON AS LED TURNS RED
6. PULL TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL ON POSITION

  Hold it there until the 

green status LED turns solid green

.

  Note: Motor will not run during programming even if connected.

7. PUSH TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL BRAKES

  Hold it there until the 

green status LED blinks green

.

8. RETURN TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO NEUTRAL

 

Red status LED will turn solid red

, indicating that speed control is at 

neutral and that proper programming has been completed.

  NOTE: If transmitter settings are changed, One-Touch Programming must be 

repeated. If you experience any problems, turn off ESC & repeat One-Touch.

REMEMBER: Whenever the One-Touch Programming is performed, the 

ESC automatically reverts back to the factory default settings.

STEP 4--ONE-TOUCH PROGRAMMING

Blue power wire

T H R O T T L E   P R O F I L E S

NOTE:  The Havoc’s software has an Auto-Detect Brush-Mode. 

This feature will automatically switch the ESC from the Brushless 

Throttle Profile to Brush-Mode when it does not have a brushless 

motor’s sensor harness plugged into it at start-up.

 

BRUSHLESS PROFILE 

BRUSH-MODE

 

 

w/Reverse 

on 

on

 

Reverse % 

100% 

100%

 

Programmable 

yes 

yes

  Minimum Brake % 

0% 

0%

 

Drag Brake 

off 

off

 

Dead Band % 

6% 

6%

 

Minimum Drive % 

1% 

1%

 

Throttle Curve 

expo 

linear

 

Brake Frequency 

4 kHz 

3 kHz fixed

 

Motor Rotation 

CCW 

N/A

 

Li-Po Cut-Off 

on 

on

The Havoc ESC reverts back to default settings when One-Touch set-up is performed.

The Havoc ESC is fully programmable, refer to Pg.6 for fine-tuning options.

A U X I L I A RY   FA N   O U T P U T

The Havoc ESC features a set of power 

output pins for running auxiliary cooling 

fans for the motor, the ESC, or both, and 

they will switch on & off with the ESC’s 

power  switch.  These  pins  output  6.0 

VDC (same as the BEC), so you will get 

maximum output from your cooling fans 

without over-powering them by running 

directly from the battery pack’s voltage.
The pin-out label located on the front 

lower  section  of  the  ESC’s  case  (under 

the pins, push button, & LEDs) shows the 

polarity of the fan power output pins.
They are the 2 pins on the front edge 

of  the  circuit  board--Positive  (+)  is  on 

the left, and Negative (–) is on the right.

The  set  of  3  pins  behind  them  are  for  the  user-replaceable  input  signal 

harness--The polarity of those is the same:  Positive in the middle, Negative 

on the right, and the extra pin on the left is for the input signal.

The Novak 30x30x6mm clear cooling fan (Novak kit #5648) is recommended 

for the Havoc ESC. It not only fits the size of Havoc’s heat sink perfectly, it 

also comes with the connector already on it to match the pins on the Havoc.

receiver 

receiver 

Install pinion gear 

(refer to Pg.5)

Trail  

excess  

wire off  

top of  

antenna  

mast

Install  

pinion  

gear  

(refer to Pg.5)

Remove or 

insulate Orange 

power wire

Remove 

sensor 

harness

negative

fan pin

pin-out

label

positive

fan pin

Novak 

#5648 

installed

FIGURE 7

B R U S H - T Y P E   M O T O R S  

(Figure 5)

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