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21

Using Seam Guides

The seam guides on the needle plate and the hook cover  
plate help you to measure seam allowance. 
The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance 
from the center needle position in inches and millimeters. 
 

q

  Center needle position

The front seam guides are marked at 1/4˝, 3/8˝ and 
5/8˝ from the center needle position.
 

w

  Front seam guide at 1/4˝

 

e

  Front seam guide at 3/8˝

 

r

  Front seam guide at 5/8˝

The angle scales are marked at 45, 60, 90 and 120 
degrees.
Use the angle scales when seaming patchwork pieces 
(refer to page 45).
 

t

  Angle scales

Turning a square corner

To maintain a 5/8˝ seam allowance after turning a square 
corner, use the cornering guide on the needle plate.
 

y

  Cornering guides

Stop sewing when the front edge of fabric reaches the 
cornering guides.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric 90 degrees.
Start sewing in a new direction.

y

5/8˝

y

w

e

r

y

t

q

Summary of Contents for EX100

Page 1: ...Instruction Book...

Page 2: ......

Page 3: ...rasp the plug not the cord 10 Keep fingers away from all moving parts Special care is required around the sewing machine needle and or cutting blade 11 Always use the proper needle plate The wrong pla...

Page 4: ...rning a square corner 21 Altering the Needle Drop Position 22 Altering the Stitch Length 22 Straight Stitch 23 Lock a matic Stitch 23 Locking Stitch 23 Triple Stretch Stitch 24 Stretch Stitch 24 Saddl...

Page 5: ...Reverse button Start stop button Extension table Accessory box Thread cutter Face cover Thread tension dial Presser foot pressure dial Thread take up lever Lower thread guide Needle clamp screw Needl...

Page 6: ...izer plate Spool holder X 2 large 1 set on the machine Spool holder X 2 small Additional spool pin Bobbins X 4 1 set on the machine Assorted needle set Seam ripper Buttonhole opener Lint brush Screwdr...

Page 7: ...Foot control model 21371 or YC 485EC 1 is used with this sewing machine For the U S A and Canada only For appliances with a polarized plug one blade wider than the other To reduce the risk of electri...

Page 8: ...hing the table Slide the extension table along the free arm and insert the guides into the holes until the table snaps into the machine w Free arm e Guide r Hole Free arm sewing Free arm is useful for...

Page 9: ...the legs of large extension table Holding the table with both hands and slide it gently to the right Adjust the table height Turn setscrews of the table legs with a screwdriver optional Stitch Chart A...

Page 10: ...button to stop the machine When any other stitches are selected If you press the reverse button when sewing any other patterns the machine will immediately sew locking stitches and automatically stop...

Page 11: ...ng a twin needle The twin needle key will appear and the maximum stitch width will be limited to 3 0 To cancel or finish the twin needle sewing press the twin needle key twice NOTE When the twin needl...

Page 12: ...r foot Place the selected presser foot so that the pin on the foot lies just under the groove in the foot holder Lower the presser bar to lock the foot into the place w Lever e Groove r Pin Removing a...

Page 13: ...ber of fabric layers type of stitch q w e r r q w t e Tension is too loose The needle thread shows through on the wrong side of the fabric and the stitch feels bumpy Turn the dial to a higher number t...

Page 14: ...rong side bottom side of fabric q w q w q w Tension is too tight The corner of each zigzag pulls together on the right side of the fabric q Right side top side of fabric w Wrong side bottom side of fa...

Page 15: ...the magnifier in the direct sunlight otherwise it may cause a fire or burn Do not look at the sun through the magnifier as it can damage your eyes Do not hit or exert excessive force on the optic magn...

Page 16: ...needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits fine silks and silk like fabrics Selecting Thread and Needles For general sewing use needle size 11 75 or 14 90 A fine thread and needle should be use...

Page 17: ...slide the hook cover release button to the right and remove the hook cover plate Lift out the bobbin q Hook cover release button w Hook cover plate e Bobbin NOTE q w e r t y u i Extra spool pin The e...

Page 18: ...bbin Hold the thread with both hands and wind it around the bobbin clockwise several times v Insert the thread into one of the slits of the flange plate and pull the thread to cut r Flange plate t Sli...

Page 19: ...t Guide c Draw the thread to the left to pass it into the guide path marked 1 Make sure that the thread comes out from the side notch of the bobbin holder y Guide path 1 u Side notch NOTE If the threa...

Page 20: ...d down along the right channel w Right channel c Pull the thread up around the bottom of the thread guide plate Pull the thread up along the left channel e Thread guide plate r Left channel v Firmly d...

Page 21: ...reader Lower the presser foot Raise the needle to its highest position Pull down the needle threader knob as far as it will go The hook comes out through the needle eye from behind q Knob w Hook Draw...

Page 22: ...hread the bobbin holder according to the instructions on page 15 but leave a 10 cm 4 tail of the bobbin thread as shown q Bobbin thread NOTE Do not cut the bobbin thread with the thread cutter w Threa...

Page 23: ...w Raise presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam guide line on the needle plate Lower the needle to the point where you want to start Pull the thread s toward the rear and lower the presser...

Page 24: ...foot Use the thread cutter on the face cover to cut thicker threads e Thread cutter Auto Thread Cutting To cut the threads automatically after locking stitches press the thread cutter memory key The...

Page 25: ...ront seam guide at 1 4 e Front seam guide at 3 8 r Front seam guide at 5 8 The angle scales are marked at 45 60 90 and 120 degrees Use the angle scales when seaming patchwork pieces refer to page 45 t...

Page 26: ...Press the sign on the stitch width adjusting key to move the needle to the right q Stitch width adjusting key q w Altering the Stitch Length The stitch length can be altered Press the sign on the stit...

Page 27: ...Thread tension dial 2 to 6 e Presser foot Zigzag foot A For seaming garments zipper application and more Pattern 02 is used for seaming fine fabrics 4 Locking Stitch q Stitch pattern 04 w Thread tensi...

Page 28: ...6 20 w Thread tension dial 3 to 6 e Presser foot Zigzag foot A This stitch is a narrow stretch stitch designed to eliminate puckering on knit fabrics and bias seams while permitting the seam to be pre...

Page 29: ...titch width adjusting key to increase the stitch width Press the sign on the stitch width adjusting key to decrease the stitch width r Stitch width adjusting key The stitch width of pattern 07 can be...

Page 30: ...to 7 e Presser foot Zigzag foot A This stitch is used to finish a raw edge of synthetics and other stretch fabrics that tend to pucker Sew along the fabric edge leaving an adequate seam allowance Aft...

Page 31: ...justed to less than 4 5 to prevent the needle from hitting the wires on the foot q w e r Place your fabric to allow a 5 8 1 5 cm seam Trim excess close to the stitching Be careful not to cut the stitc...

Page 32: ...z Attach the automatic buttonhole foot R by snapping the pin into the groove of the foot holder q Groove w Pin Buttonholes The following 6 types of buttonholes are available q Square buttonhole This...

Page 33: ...rk the buttonhole position on the fabric Position the fabric and lower the needle into the starting point Lower the buttonhole foot Start sewing while pulling the needle thread lightly to the left Aft...

Page 34: ...e lever then restart the machine 7 Buttonhole lever icon b n m 4 5 6 7 Double layer buttonhole To make a sturdy buttonhole sew another layer of buttonhole stitches over the previous stitches After the...

Page 35: ...the plate holder r Tab t Slot c Attach the buttonhole foot with the stabilizer plate to the machine Pass the needle thread through the hole of the foot and draw it to the left between the foot and st...

Page 36: ...r foot Automatic buttonhole foot R Sewing procedure is the same as square buttonhole The buttonhole width can be varied from 5 5 to 7 0 The stitch density can be varied from 0 3 to 0 8 Use the seam ri...

Page 37: ...ment fabric x Select pattern 16 Sew the welted buttonhole on both fabrics together c Cut the buttonhole opening as illustrated then pull the patch out through the slit to the other side q Wrong side o...

Page 38: ...over the triangular end q Wrong side of patch w Right side of garment fabric r Wrong side of garment fabric b Fold back each side of the patch to form buttonhole lips q Wrong side of patch w Right sid...

Page 39: ...rk the 4 corners with pins as shown y Facing u Garment fabric 2 Turn all the layers over and cut the buttonhole opening on the facing in the same way as step c Four marker pins show you the corner poi...

Page 40: ...front end Hook the filler cord into the forks on the front of the buttonhole foot to hold them tight Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole will start and lower the foot q Spur w Forks...

Page 41: ...The machine will sew locking stitch 16 rows of darning locking stitch again and stop automatically v Turn the fabric and repeat sewing in different direction The machine will trim the threads at the e...

Page 42: ...cated on the LCD display refer to page 20 Sewing a shorter tack To sew a tack shorter than 1 5 cm 5 8 first stop the machine after sewing the required length then press the reverse button The tack len...

Page 43: ...pointed scissors NOTE The machine will cut the threads at the end of sewing automatically if the thread cutter sign is indicated on the LCD display refer to page 20 Adjusting the shape of an eyelet C...

Page 44: ...e zipper opening with the stitch length 5 0 o 2 cm 13 16 0 Seam 1 Reverse stitches 2 Zipper opening Basting NOTE Loosen the thread tension to 1 for basting Zipper Sewing q Stitch pattern 01 w Thread t...

Page 45: ...1 8 r Zipper teeth t Fold y Zipper opening u i z x c q e r t y w x Attach the zipper foot with the pin on the right Sew through all the layers from the end of the zipper opening guiding the zipper te...

Page 46: ...cm 3 8 Turn the fabric 90 degrees and stitch through the garment and zipper tape 1 Backstitch n Stop the machine 5 cm 2 before the foot reaches the slider on the zipper tape Lower the needle into the...

Page 47: ...guide e Fold r Guide Adjusting the needle drop position Press the sign on the stitch width adjusting key to move the needle to the right Press the sign on the stitch width adjusting key to move the ne...

Page 48: ...ust the stitch width if necessary w Stitch width adjust to span of holes Stitch several times After you finish sewing cut the thread but leave 10 cm 4 of threads at the end With a hand sewing needle d...

Page 49: ...along the guide on the foot to keep a precise 1 4 seam allowance q Wrong side of fabric w Right side of fabric q w w z x c x Select stitch pattern 60 Replace the presser foot to Zigzag foot A c Press...

Page 50: ...h t The stitch width will be varied based on the centered needle drop position y A The stitch pattern 37 has a fixed left needle drop position When you change the stitch width the right needle drop po...

Page 51: ...36 w Thread tension dial 3 to 6 e Presser foot Satin stitch foot F Drawn work uses the same method as fringing Choose a firm woven fabric like linen where threads can be removed easily z Carefully cut...

Page 52: ...e auto lock key before sewing the machine will sew one unit of the cross stitch and stop automatically 4 q w e Fagoting q Stitch pattern 28 43 or 62 w Thread tension dial 3 to 6 e Presser foot Satin s...

Page 53: ...Sew rows of straight stitches 1 cm 3 8 apart across the area to be smocked Knot the threads along one edge From the other edge pull the bobbin threads to distribute the gathers evenly q 1 cm 3 8 w Kn...

Page 54: ...small areas Place a quilt layer and sew You can close quilt layers and using the clasp stitch Select stitch pattern 44 Press the auto lock button Start sewing The machine sews clasp stitch and lockin...

Page 55: ...w Thread tension dial 3 to 6 e Presser foot Satin stitch foot F 4 q w e q L1 Satin stitches are used as decorative stitches on table linen etc Test sew if you reduce the stitch length to ensure smoot...

Page 56: ...ns For pattern identification these patterns are shaded in light grey on the stitch chart z x c v b n m q w q w e 4 Threading the machine for twin needle Raise the needle to the highest position and r...

Page 57: ...edle sewing cannot be selected If you press the twin needle key again the LCD display shows only the blinking twin needle icon and all the keys and buttons except for the twin needle key will be deact...

Page 58: ...djusting key r Stitch width adjusting key Press the setting mode key to return to the normal sewing mode MACHINE SETTINGS Machine Setting Mode In the setting mode buzzer sound and needle stop position...

Page 59: ...e the needle then unplug the sewing machine Remove the needle and presser foot Remove the hook cover plate by sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right Take out the bobbin Brush out dus...

Page 60: ...ccurs again after cleaning the hook area contact the service center or the store from where the machine was purchased Problems and Warning Signs The machine will not sew because the presser foot is no...

Page 61: ...ed properly 5 A poor quality needle is used 1 The needle thread tension is too tight 2 The needle thread is not threaded properly 3 The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn 4 The stitch lengt...

Page 62: ...58 Stitch Chart Stitch patterns shaded in light grey can be used for the twin needle sewing refer to page 52...

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