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8
____21. It is easier to trim off the excess overhang of the
FRONT before installing the BACK. You can do this
by hand with a fi ne-tooth coping saw, though you
must be careful to install the blade with the teeth cut-
ting toward the handle. (fi g. 23) Don’t trim too close!
Leave some for sanding with a coarse sanding block.
If you have a router and router table, you can do this
job much more quickly and easily. Use a fl ush trim
bit, and stand it high enough to roll along the sides.
(fi g. 24)
Regardless of how you accomplished the initial trim-
ming, you will still need to follow afterwards with a
coarse (60-80 grit) sanding block in order to fi nish the
job. A sharp chisel or razor knife might help in the
corners where the neck meets the body.
D
irection of teeth>>>>>>>>
FIG. 23
FIG. 24
Caution: Make sure the roller does not “fall”
into the groove of the Tail Piece!
•
INSTALLING THE BACK
You may want to sign and date your instrument before closing it up. This is a good time
for that. Find a spot inside the BACK where you’ll be able to see your signature through
the soundhole.
•
Now you can glue and clamp the BACK
panel in place, showing the better face out-
ward. It is not so important to center this
piece perfectly, but you’ll want to have some
excess material overhanging the body all
the way around. (fi g. 25)
Wa-La! Your instrument is all assembled. Pat yourself on the back and have some milk and
cookies! There’s still work to do, but the heavy lifting is out of the way.
____22.
FIG. 25
____23. When the BACK is dry, trim off the excess
overhang all the way around, just as you did
for the FRONT.
