Single–Tier Manual
•
MoreBeer.com
•
1–800–600–0033
13
Single–Tier Manual
•
MoreBeer.com
•
1–800–600–0033
The conversion from mashing to sparging is rather simple. We’ll want to close the mash tun’s ball valve, as well
as the ball valve on the March Pump and sparge arm. Move the tubing running from the mash tun’s ball valve
to the hot liquor tanks ball valve. Take one of the tubing lengths with (2) quick disconnects and connect the
Mash Tun ball valve to the inlet of the left side pump. Take another tubing length with (2) quick disconnects &
connect the outlet of the left pump to the boil kettle ball valve. With the hot liquor temperature at 170°F (or
slightly higher), open the hot liquor tank and March Pump ball valves all the way. Now crack the sparge arm
assembly’s ball valve and turn on the pump. The liquid level should now be dropping in the hot liquor tank,
while rising in the mash tun. Once 2–3" has gathered on top of the grain bed, open the boil kettle ball valve,
and crack the mash tun ball valve – now we’re sparging!
We want to make sure that during the sparge we do not over fill our mash tun, while also avoiding running
the grain bed dry. The float switch will monitor this for the most part, but we will still need a little fine tuning
of the ball valves on both the hot liquor tank and mash tun. The sparge process should take between 45–75
minutes, so if it seems like your hot liquor tank will be dry after 20 minutes, it’s best to close both ball valves a
little more to slow down the flow. Finding that perfect flow rate may take a few batches, so make note on how
The Flow of the Tubing
Sparging: